Hifonics BOLTAR 2K Manuel rapide - Page 10
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TROUBLESHOOTING A SYSTEM
The key to finding the problem in a misbehaving sound system is to isolate parts of that system in a logical fashion to track down the fault.
Description of the Diagnostic system built into all HIFONICS amplifiers
The diagnostic system will shut down the amplifier, until reset by turning the head unit off, and back on. This state of affairs will be indicated by the front panel
PROTECT LED lighting up under the following conditions:
1 - A sort circuit on the loudspeaker leads.
2 - An internal amplifier fault that causes a DC offset on the loudspeaker output.
Should the amplifier go into diagnostic mode, simply disconnect all RCA and speaker leads, while keeping +12 volt, power ground and remote leads connected.
1. Now turn the amplifier back on, and if the diagnostic LED lights, the amplifier has an internal fault.
2. If not, plug the RCA cables back, and reset the amplifier. If it goes into diagnostic now, the fault lies in the input, either with bad cables or source unit.
3. If the amplifier seems ok with RCA cables plugged in, connect the speakers, one at a time, and if one of speaker or its wiring is faulty, it will activate the diagnostic
system.
4. If the amplifier is still in Protection mode after the above steps, remove all RCA's and wires from the amplifier. Take a 12" length of speaker wire, trim the plastic
off of each end exposing the wire. Now connect one end of the wire to the12V+ on the amplifier and connect the other to the Ground on the amplifier. You will have
a brief spark indicating that the Capacitors have been discharged and the drivercard has been reset. Remove the jumper wire and reconnect your Power, Ground
and Remote wires. Attempt to power the amplifier up like normal. In some cases this can Reset the amplifier if permanent damage has not previously been done.
Amplifier heatsink overheating
The amplifiers will shut down when the heatsink temperature reaches 80 degrees centigrade, and turn back on once the unit has cooled down below that point.
Causes of overheating:
1 - Inadequate cooling - relocate or remount to provide better natural airflow over the fins.
2 - Driving high power levels into low impedances - back off on the volume control, and/or make sure you are not loading the amplifier with less than the
recommended loudspeaker impedance.
3 - Excessive voltage drop can also cause overheating.
Low output power
1 - Check that level controls have been set up properly.
2 - Make sure that the battery voltage, as measured at the amplifier's +12 volt and ground terminals, is 11 volts or more.
3 - Check all +12 volt and ground connections.
Fuses blowing
1 - The use of loudspeaker impedances below the recommended minimums will draw more current - check.
2 - A short on the main +12 volt cable from the battery to the vehicle chassis will cause the main fuse to blow.
3 - If an amplifier fuse blows continually, with only +12 volt, ground and remote leads connected, the amplifier may be faulty.
System does not turn on
1 - Check all fuses.
2 - Check all connections.
3 - Measure the +12 volt and remote turn on voltages at the amplifier terminals. If these are non existent or low, take voltage measurements at fuse holders,
distribution blocks, the head unit's +12 volt and remote leads to localize the problem.
4 - If the HIFONICS lettering is illuminated but you do not have Power or Protection illuminated, simply remove your remote wire and use a jumper wire from 12V+
on the amplifier to the Remote connection on the amplifier. If the amplifier powers on like normal then you do not have adequate voltage/amperage from your Remote
source to turn your amplifier on. You will need to seek out a certified installer to install a relay for your amplifier. If the jumper does not power your amplifier on, you
may have internal damage and should contact Hifonics Customer Service to locate an Authorized Repair Center.
Noise problems
System noise can be divided into two categories, hiss, and electrical interference.
Hiss, or white noise:
1 - High levels of white noise usually occurs when amplifier level controls are turned up too high - readjust according to the procedures in section "Setting up systems after
installation for best performance"
2 - Another major problem that can cause excessive hiss, is a noisy head unit - unplug the amplifier input RCA cables, and if the hiss level reduces, the source unit is at fault.
Electrical interference:
The inside of an automobile is a very hostile electrical environment. The multitude of electrical systems, such as the ignition system, alternator, fuel pumps, air conditioners,
to mention just a few, create radiated electrical fields, as well as noise on the +12 volt supply and ground. Remember to isolate the problem - first unplug amplifier input RCA
cables, if the noise is still present, check the speaker leads, if not, plug the RCA's back, and investigate the source driving the amplifier, one component at a time.
A ticking or whine that changes with engine RPM:
1 - This problem could be caused by radiation pickup of RCA cables too near to a fuel pump or a distributor, for instance, - relocate cables.
2 - Check that the head unit ground is connected straight to the vehicle chassis, and does not use factory wiring for ground.
3 - Try to supply the head unit with a clean +12 volt supply directly from the battery +, instead of using a supply from the in dash wiring/fusebox.
A constant whine:
This type of noise can be more difficult to pinpoint, but is usually caused by some kind of instability, causing oscillations in the system.
1 - Check all connections, especially for good grounds.
2 - Make sure that no speaker leads are shorting to exposed metal on the vehicle chassis.
3 -RCA cables are notorious for their problematic nature, so check that these are good, in particular the shield connections.