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A. How to Plan Your New Central Cleaning System

Before you start, read these instructions

thoroughly.You will be pleased to learn that a

central cleaning system is surprisingly easy

to install, and will provide you with years of

trouble-free enjoyment. All central cleaning

systems may be installed in either existing

or new construction. In either case, the num-

ber of inlets required and their locations

must be determined before starting the

installation.

STEP

1: Choose the Valve Locations

Choose central locations for inlet valves in order to

cover the maximum area with the deluxe 30 foot

(9m) length hose. Usually several rooms (or The

inlet valve locations and hose coverage using the

floor plans of the construction. If the building is exist-

ing or under construction, use a 30 foot (9m) tape or

rope. Be sure every inch of floor, wall, closet, and

ceiling can be reached, bearing in mind the hose

may have to reach around large pieces of furniture.

Good locations are centrally located in hallways or

closet walls near doorways. Inlets should be

installed near an electrical outlet (no more than 6 ft.

(1.82m) away). This would allow the use of an elec-

tric hose without using a drop cord. Caution—Do

not place inlet valves where a door slides in the

wall,behind possible furniture, or behind open

doors. In existing homes, consider whether you will

want floor inlets or wall inlets. Floor valves are more

easily installed than wall valves and sometimes are

the only practical installation. They have some dis-

advantages as the hose must be inserted at the floor

level rather than at a more convenient wall height.

Wall height is a matter of individual preference.

Some homeowners prefer the inlet at a convenient

Entire Main Floor) can be

serviced from a single inlet

valve (Fig. 1). There is an

inlet valve on the power unit

itself, and this feature often

reduces, by one, the num-

ber of inlets required. Since

floor plans are normally

drawn to 1/4" scale (1 to

50cm), a 7-inch (18cm)

piece of string or beaded

chain will help to determine

fingertip height (about 30 inches (76cm)), while oth-

ers want it to match the electric outlet height.

STEP 2: Choose Power Unit Location

The power unit can be mounted on almost any wall.

It should be out of the way, yet accessible, so the dirt

receptacle may be emptied. If you plan to exhaust

the power unit, locate it so piping can be run outside

conveniently. Venting over 10 ft. (3m) is not recom-

mended. You will need to plug your power unit into

an electric outlet with no other loads on the circuit or

you may want to run a separate 15 amp. circuit.

STEP 3: Plan the Tube System

Plan the entire tubing installation from the power unit

to the desired location of the valve(s) (Fig. 2). It is

best to run tubing under the floor in structures with

basements or adequate crawl space. In locations

with no under-floor access, tubing may be run "up"

pipes, beside chimneys, or in partition walls before

the drywall goes on. The system that uses the least

amount of bends and tubing should be used.

STEP 4: Tools Required

a) 1/2" (1.3cm) Electric Drill

b) 2-1/4" (5.7cm) Hole Saw or Cutter

c) Steel Tape Measure

d) Screwdriver (Phillips)

e) Screwdriver (Common Blade)

f) Wire Cutters

g) Common Hacksaw or Small Handsaw

h) Hammer

j) Chisel

l) Metal Coat Hanger

n) Razor Knife

to the attic and over

to the power unit

using the same pre-

cautions and basic

procedures as with a

"down" system. In 2-

or 3-story existing

structures,

tubing

can be run to upper

levels,

through

clothes chutes, back

corners of closets,

under

stairways,

beside soil

i) Masonry Drill Bit

k)Pocket Knife

m)Electrical Tape