DaytonAudio UA721 Montageanleitung - Seite 2

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Dayton Audio and Dr. Joseph D'Appolito teamed up to design and produce a world-class bookshelf loudspeaker system that would establish new

standards of audio excellence. The dual Usher 8836AC woofers and single Usher 9950C-15 tweeter have been sonically matched and optimally

paired in this system. Great drivers, superbly constructed enclosures, and a great audio mind combine to produce an awesome home theater

speaker system with truly impressive playback performance. Both drivers' motors incorporate magnetic shielding to prevent interference with

adjacent equipment. A 2 kHz crossover point contributes to the excellent transition between the Usher woofer and tweeter. Lay these versatile

speakers on their sides for HT center channel applications or stand them up vertically for all other uses.

With the influx of high-definition video sources and brutally accurate digital soundtracks, there is an ever-increasing expectation placed on home

audio playback systems to bring no-excuses audiophile sound to the cinematic experience. Thanks to Dr. D'Appolito's efforts to ensure excellent

dispersion and exceptionally smooth off-axis response, this system exceeds those expectations.

Frequency Graph

Specifications: • Impedance: 4 ohms • Frequency response: 38 - 20,000 Hz • SPL: 89 dB 2.83V/1m • Power handling: 140 watts RMS

• Traditional cabinet dimensions: 22" H x 9" W x 13.5" D • Curved cabinet dimensions: 22" H x (9" front, 4.5" back) W x 14.8" D.

Crossover Diagram

Before beginning the assembly process, please read this manual in its entirety and confirm that you have all necessary components listed below.

If anything appears to be missing, please contact your place of purchase immediately

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Description

Dayton custom 1.0 ft³ cabinet

Usher 8836AC 7" shielded kevlar woofer

Usher 9950C-15 1-1/8" shielded textile dome tweeter

Optimized high pass filter

Optimized low pass filter

Input wiring harness (16" w/ .250" terminals)

Woofer wiring harness (12" and 20" w/ .110" and .187" terminals)

Introduction

Front

Back

Dimensions based on traditional cabinet design.

Parts Inventory

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Description

Tweeter wiring harness (12" w/ .250" terminals)

Dayton heavy duty binding post pair

Acousta-Stuf polyfill 1 lb.

#6 x 3/4" Pan head screws

36" Speaker sealing caulk

Assembly instruction manual

Loudspeaker Kit Assembly Instructions

By following these instructions and assembling the speaker in a con-

scientious manner, you will be able to enjoy your investment for many

years to come. If there are any questions during the assembly process,

please contact your place of purchase.

Gather the Necessary Tools

The assembly of your speaker kit requires several basic tools and

supplies, though more advanced tools can be used if desired. The fol-

lowing list represents the basic tools that are required:

Hammer

#2 Phillips head screwdriver or power driver

Small wrench or pliers

Silicone adhesive or hot-melt glue gun

Workspace Considerations

As with any type of kit assembly, it is best to have a well-lit, large, clean

work area. This will save time by eliminating lost parts and preventing

assembly errors. When working with the cabinets, it is important to

cover the work surface with a cloth or foam layer to protect the speaker

finish. The foam wrap that is around the speaker cabinets will work well

for this, but make sure it is free from dust or other debris.

Getting Organized

To prepare for the kit assembly, begin with some basic unpacking

and organizing. Open the large speaker cabinet box and remove the

cabinet from the packaging. You will need to unwrap the cabinet itself,

saving the wrap to protect your work surface. Remove the baffle from

the cabinet and place the baffle screws somewhere safe. Unpack the

binding posts and other packaged items.

Assembly

1. Install Binding Posts

The posts will need to be

"knocked" into place with

a hammer and secured

from the inside of the cab-

inet. Start by placing the

cabinet face-down onto

the work surface, being

sure that the cabinet is

firmly supported.

Remove the binding posts

from their package, and

unscrew all washers and

nuts from the shaft. Next,

remove the main nut

that is used to hold the

speaker wire onto the terminals—this will prevent them from getting

damaged while the posts are being inserted.

Insert one of the post shafts into the hole and align it, ensuring the

wire through-hole is running vertically. Gently tap into place until the

shoulder is even with the rear of the cabinet.

Note: Excessive hammering is not necessary and may cause damage

to the finish of the cabinet around posts. Repeat the same process with

the second post.

Once the posts have been knocked into place you will need to secure

them from the inside of the cabinet. A lock washer followed by a nut

should be installed to secure the posts to the cabinet. Next, install the

wire terminal tab, the second lock washer, the second nut, and then

tighten into place.

Now that the posts are fully secured, reinstall the colored knobs on the

outside of the cabinet. When viewed from the rear of the cabinet (termi-

nals should be closer to the "bottom" of the cabinet), the "red" terminal

is normally positioned on the right-hand side.

2. Wiring and installing the crossovers

The crossover is composed of two sections (two boards): a low pass

filter for the woofer and a high pass filter for the tweeter. There is an

indicator on the printed circuit board near the output terminals of each

filter, "W" denotes the low pass filter and is for connection to the woofer

and "T" denotes the high pass filter and is for connection to the tweeter.

The input terminal for each board is indicated using "IN".

Note: In most cases the cause of a problem will be traced back to im-

proper wiring of the crossover so please double check your connections.

Wiring: Each kit includes input, woofer/s and tweeter wiring harness

with the crossover boards.

Using the parts list, identify the correct harnesses and attach to the ap-

propriate terminals on the crossover boards. The crossover board side

of the harness will always use the larger .250" connectors. Connect the

input wiring harness from both crossover boards to the binding posts

wire terminal tabs while paying close attention to polarity. The red wires

will connect to the terminals that are marked with a + sign.

Location: With the crossover boards in the cabinet and connected to

the input binding posts, identify a suitable mounting location making

sure both the woofer(s) and tweeter wiring harness will reach their

respective drivers. The best location for the low pass filter is on the bot-

tom front half of the cabinet and the best location for the high pass filter

is across the center of the internal brace.

Mounting: Secure the crossovers to the inside of the cabinet with the

included #6 screws or with silicone or hot-melt glue. If using hot-melt

glue, it is recommended to place the glue on the surface of the cabinet

and then press the board into it. This prevents the glue from cooling too

rapidly or dripping onto the cabinet. For curved-sided cabinets, we rec-

ommend using the screws to secure the crossover boards. If you are

using silicone, it is easier to apply the glue to the back of the PC board.

Make sure the mounting location is horizontal, and place the board

into its location. Allow the silicone to cure for an hour or so before you

change the orientation of the cabinet.

3. Install damping material

For this system you will be using the included Acousta-Stuf polyfill.

Approximately 14 oz. should be allocated for each cabinet. Knead or

fluff material to create an even density then place equal amount of

material in front of and behind internal brace. Secure to the cabinet

using a spray adhesive such as 3M's Super 77 or with hot-melt glue.

When using spray adhesive, please follow the manufacturer's instruc-

tions. It is best to apply the spray to the internal walls of the cabinet

but prevent getting adhesive on cabinet exterior. When using hot-melt

glue, simply place a few drops at various locations on the inside of the

cabinet and press material into place.

4. Install the baffle

Press the baffle into the cabinet, working carefully to ensure that no

wires are trapped between the baffle and the cabinet. Rout the driver

wiring to their proper driver hole location. Once the baffle is fully

installed, it can be secured via the included machine screws and glued

into place if desired.

Note: Once the baffle is glued into place, making any changes to the

speaker becomes very difficult. Using the four machine screws by

themselves will have adequate holding power to prevent leaks and

vibrations of the baffle. However, for the utmost cabinet strength, the

baffle should be glued into place with polyurethane glue.

5. Install drivers in baffle

When mounting the drivers, start with the tweeter. This will leave the

large woofer opening to help the wiring and placement of the more

delicate tweeter. Identify the tweeter wiring harness and gently pull it

through the tweeter opening and attached the terminals while paying

close attention to the polarity of the connections. The red wires will

connect to the terminals that are marked with a "red" dot or "+" sign.

Repeat this step for the woofer(s).

All drivers should be lowered carefully into place on the baffle. Facing

the terminals towards the bottom of the cabinet is the generally accepted

orientation, though it is not a critical. Using the included screws and pre-

drilled pilot holes carefully tighten the drivers down onto the baffle. Pay

particular attention to not over-tighten screws on drivers with stamped

steel or polymer frames, which can cause deformation of the flange.

Secure the drivers to the baffles with the included #6 screws. All screw

holes are pre-drilled so be sure to properly align the drivers with these

holes during installation. For all driver installations, some form of gas-

ket material should be used between the driver frames and the baffle to

prevent air leaks and vibrations.