Donn Steward CPUville 8-bit Manual de instrucciones - Página 5

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If this happens, you have to remove the solder with a desoldering tool, and re-do the joints.
Other tips:
1. Be careful not to damage the traces on the board. They are very thin copper films, just under
a thin plastic layer of solder mask (the green stuff). If you plop the board down on a hard
surface that has hard debris on it (like ICs, screws etc.) it is easy to cut a trace. Such damage
can be fixed, if you can find it, but try to avoid it in the first place.
2. When soldering multi-pin components, like the ICs or IC sockets, it is important to hold the
parts against the board when soldering so they aren't "up in the air" when the solder
hardens. The connections might work OK, but it looks terrible. If you make a lot of
connections on a part while it is up in the air it is very difficult to get it to sit back down,
because you cannot heat all the connections at the same time. To prevent this, I like to solder
the lowest profile parts first, like resistors, because when the board is upside down they will
be pressed against the top of the board by the surface of the table I am working on. Then, I
solder the taller parts, like the LEDs, sockets, and capacitors. Sometimes, I need to put
something beneath the component to support it while the board is upside down to be
soldered, like a rolled-up piece of paper or the handle of a tool. Another technique is to put a
tiny drop of solder on the tip of the iron, press the part against the board with one hand, and
apply the drop of solder to one of the leads. When the solder hardens, it holds the chip in
place. Solder the other leads, then come back and re-solder the one you used to hold it. It is
good to re-solder it because the original solder drop will not have had any rosin in it. The
rosin in the cold solder helps the electrical connection to be clean.
3. The components with long bendable leads (capacitors, resistors, and LEDs) can be inserted,
and then the leads bent to hold them in place:
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