Duratax NITRO DEMON Manuel d'assemblage et d'utilisation - Page 17

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If you are having problems with your engine

consult the engine troubleshooting flow chart on

the back cover. The following are some potential

problems.

Glow Plug

The glow plug is an item that will wear out and need

replacement from time to time. It is a good idea to

remove the glow plug before your first run, heat it and

see how well it glows. You should see a bright orange

glow from the filament. If a coil or two will not glow or

the plug will not glow at all, replace the plug. If the

engine quits when you remove the glow starter, the

plug might need to be changed, although this may be

because you are running too rich and need to screw in

your high-speed needle some. Look at the glow plug

when you are running the engine. If you see some

bubbles coming from around the plug, replace the

glow plug (copper) gasket, or both the plug and

gasket. The only real way to test a glow plug is to

replace it. Make sure you have a spare plug or two on

hand every time that you run the Nitro Demon.

Fuel

Fuel can go bad. The main ingredient in model fuel is

methanol, which is basically an alcohol. Alcohols can

absorb water out of the air, so keep your fuel jug

capped at all times. Store your fuel out of the sunlight

and in a cool place. Bad fuel is one of the most difficult

problems to diagnose in engines. If you have tried

everything you can think of to remedy an engine that

is not running correctly, try using some fresh fuel.

Fuel line is susceptible to pinhole leaks. You cannot see

the hole in the fuel line, but if you see air bubbles in the

line going to the carburetor, replace the fuel line. Another

symptom of a leak in the fuel line is a surging engine. The

properly tuned engine will surge when the air bubbles hit

the carb. It is basically leaning out the mixture.

To keep dirt out of the engine, we recommend that you

use an inline fuel filter on the fuel line running from the

fuel tank to the carburetor. Dirt can get caught in the

needle seat and cause an inconsistent running engine.

If you suspect that some dirt has lodged itself in the

carb, remove the needles and clean the carb with

denatured alcohol or fuel. It can help to use

compressed air to blow out the fuel passages as well.

Dirt can get into your carburetor and engine through

the air filter. Ensure that your air cleaner has a good

seal to the top of the carb. Periodically wash the air

cleaner foam element and re-oil the filter. Any air

cleaner that has a torn element or a bad seal should

be replaced immediately.

Overheating

One of the worst things you can do to your engine is

overheat it. The oils that lubricate the engine are

carried in the fuel. If your engine is set too lean, there

will not be enough oil in the engine to lubricate the

internal parts. This will cause premature wear in the

engine and cause damage. We have talked about

overheating in other parts of this manual, but we want

to stress the proper techniques to check for

overheating. The easiest way of checking the

temperature of the cylinder head is using one of the

available temperature gauges. This will give you a

direct reading of the cylinder head temperature. Do not

let the head temperature exceed 220° Fahrenheit

(104° Celsius). Another way of checking the head

temperature is to put a drop of water on the cylinder

head. If it boils away within 10 seconds, the high-speed

needle is set too lean. If the water boils away in

around 15 seconds, the engine is within proper operating

temperatures. If the water boils away longer than 15

seconds, the mixture is set rich which is preferable

when breaking in the engine. Otherwise lean the

mixture some and retest after a minute of running.

PERFORMANCE TUNING

Ride Height: This refers to the clearance between the

ground and the chassis, both at the front and the back

of the truck. The general rule is to have the

suspension arms perfectly level when the car is at

rest. To determine the ride height, drop the truck from

around 6"-12" above flat ground. Drop the truck,

making sure it drops flat. Check where the suspension

arms come to rest. You can adjust ride by moving the

spring adjusters on the shock, which are at the top of

each shock spring, until the arms are level after the

drop test.

Toe-In/Toe-Out: This refers to the angle of the front

tires when viewed from above when the suspension

arms are level. If the fronts of the tires angle in, it is

called "toe-in" and if the fronts of the tires angle out, it

is called "toe-out." In front, this is adjusted by

lengthening or shortening the steering rods - the rods

that run between the front hub and the servo saver.

The rear toe-in is adjusted by the large turnbuckles

behind the rear suspension. Normally a small amount

of toe-in is used to make the truck track straight at high

speed. Too much toe-in will make the truck difficult to

turn as well as reduce the overall top speed because

of tire scrub. Sometimes a small amount of toe-out will

be used to help the steering. As a general rule use a

small amount of toe-in.