Green Hobby Daisy G Instructions de construction - Page 3
Parcourez en ligne ou téléchargez le pdf Instructions de construction pour {nom_de_la_catégorie} Green Hobby Daisy G. Green Hobby Daisy G 6 pages.
Imprimer la pagecolour (red/black), then the wires can not touch even while hanging-swinging round inside your model.
Greene Hobby has suitable plugs and heatshrink for this.
Don't try "testing" the motor holding the wires together in your hand - accidents happen.
NIMH Battery Electric Version: This is fitted using two postage stamp size patches of VELCRO on the
Nimh, and a 200mm strip of VELCRO on the fuselage base/lower sides. The idea is to be able to stick
the battery in the exact place that gets the aircraft balanced, see later.
You will get surprisingly long flights with the recommended nimh battery from your DAISY, it's height
retention is very good, even when turning.
At Green Hobby we have tried many batteries for balance and performance while testing prototypes.
We found that, of the many batteries available, three nimh packs give equally nice flying but give
different duration. One is slightly heavier, so they serve the dual function of steadying DAISY in variable
windy conditions. These 1050 mAh, 1100mAh and 2000 mAh DAISY nimhs are available from Green
Hobby. Both are easily fitted and removed from the fuselage for charging.
Glider Version Battery: In the Daisy Glider version, the weight of the missing motor must be
compensated for. So if you are fitting Daisy as a glider, the battery (4 cell receiver battery) goes in the
nose, and is held by blue tack putty. Add enough blue tack, so that the centre of gravity is identical to
motor version as explained later.
CONTROL CABLES & HORNS: Make a "Z" bend in one end of each steel inner cable (3mm between
90°bends). Cut each white outer 2 cm shorter than its steel inner. Slide inner into outer. Slide elevator
cable from tail up fuselage inside to servo area. Hook elevator control horn onto Z bend with flat
edge/holes to front, with holes adjacent with elevator hinge line. Trial fit, make pin pricks for horn
screws, drill elevator 2mm for screws, install control horn under elevator using screw receiver plate for
top of elevator. Horn may be glue-on type, if so, just drill an appropriate size hole and glue it into the
wood. Slide white outer so that it ends 1cm away from control horn (just inside fuselage end), and
carefully put a drop of epoxy on the outer 1/2 cm further inside, bonding outer to fuselage floor. Use a
wood strip for this and get no glue on the steel inner or controls will not work. Consider oiling the steel
inner for added safety, but take care because if oil gets on the outer, the glue will not bond outer
correctly to the fuselage.
Epoxy fuselage must be drilled for rudder cable. Locate the spot, 6mm to side of fin, and adjacent to the
rear end of the fin base on the fuselage outside. Drill 2mm for rudder cable. Open up the hole to an
oval shape by redrilling at the angle the cable will take. The pin vice is excellent for this job. Trial fit
rudder cable. If necessary use a rat tail needle file to free cable outer. The cable should point towards
the place where the control horn will be when installed.
This ensures that there is no sharp corner/bend in the cable that makes the steel inner tight in its
movements. A tight cable uses excessive servo power and shortens flight duration.
Slide control horn onto Z bend, flat edge forward, and trial fit control horn as before, with flat edge inline
with rudder hinge, in such a way that the cable points to the place of installation. Estimated location for
horn is near base of rudder with rear end of horn raised 2mm more than front so horn is inline with steel
inner. Drill rudder and install control horn. You now have a friction free cable to the rudder.
Slide the white outer along inner down to the control horn; put a smear of epoxy at the place that will go
through the epoxy fuselage. Slide outer back forwards, spinning gently until it ends 1-1 1/4cm from
control horn, and epoxy bonds where outer exits the fuselage. Once again, keep glue off the steel inner.
CANOPY: Take a piece of steel wire 220mm approx, lay it lengthwise on the inside of the canopy,
spread epoxy for 1cm each side of the middle of the wire leaving from each end to about 2cm inside
each end of the canopy glue free. Take the two 2cm wide ribbons of tissue and press the tissue ribbons
onto the wire & epoxy, spread epoxy into tissue. Tape in place with insulating or sticky tape, holding
wire and tissue to the concave canopy inside until hard. Later remove tape, wire is held as if glass
fibred into canopy. Trial fit canopy onto the fuselage. The wire now acts like a spring clip, bend the wire
so as to lie inside epoxy fuselage when canopy is fitted. Trim wire slightly for best fit. See picture.
SERVOS AND RC GEAR: Micro servos are assumed for this model, unless you intend to fly it as a
glider (no prop-motor-flight nimhs). Even as a glider micro servos are the way to do it. Ask the Green
Hobby team for suggestions on best micro servos.
Locate & cut 2 or 3 servo bearers, from balsa strip as shown. Illustration shows a plywood capping
which is not necessary, so use balsa as supplied. Lengths of 38mm 40mm and 42mm (40-50mm for
Glider version) are about right but slightly oversize. The idea is to trial fit, sand it a little and trial fit
again. If they are wedged in with force, an ugly bulge will appear on the epoxy fuselage outside surface!
Tweezers and point nose pliers help here. Due to the round fuselage shape the lower part of the
bearers will be sanded shorter length than the ply hardened top surface.
Epoxy wood in place with servo resting on the bearer to ensure correct spacing.
Illustration shows servos side by side, this is tight to arrange, but preferable. Inline servos are an option
using the third servo bearer. There is more finger space this way! For durability spread a thin layer of
epoxy 1cm around the glued area on the fuselage inner wall as shown.