Abundant Flow Water Zoi DFK-Iota Manuale di servizio - Pagina 12

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equipment to protect yourself.

1. Mark the center of the hole with a pencil, marker or other

marking device

2. Determine your sink type:

a. Porcelain, Enamel, or Ceramic on Metal: Using a 1/4"

masonry bit, carefully (using a slow speed and light pressure)

drill a pilot hole through the sink. If drilling through a ceramic

on metal sink, stop when you reach the metal portion, switch

to a 1/4" metal cutting bit and continue.

b. Stainless Steel or Cast Iron: Using a 1/4" metal cutting bit,

carefully drill a pilot hole through the sink.

3. Continue to enlarge the pilot hole until the hole is 1/2".

4. Clean up any rough or sharp edges.

Note: Air gap faucets are required by some local plumbing codes.

These faucets require a 1-1/4" hole in the sink rather than the 1/2"

hole required by the standard RO faucet. If a hole large enough (1-

1/4") is not already available,

special tools (such as a chassis

punch or a Relton cutter) may

be required. Contact your

local plumber or contractor if

you are unable to make the

required hole yourself. If an

air gap faucet is required, we

provide a number of different

styles and colors; contact us

for pricing and availability.

Once the faucet location has

been prepared, move on to

the next step: Mounting the

Faucet.

Mounting the Faucet:

1. Remove all parts from the

RO faucet shank. Using

Figure 1, gather the pieces

shown. NOTE: The diagram

is for the standard RO

faucet, an upgraded faucet

Open

Escutcheon Plate

Black O-ring washer

Countertop

Locating Washer

Star Washer

Lock nut

Revised 10/2014

has them.) To replace them, remove the tubing and/or fittings

from each end of the filter (refer to section on quick connect

fittings near the beginning of the manual if you are unsure

how to do this) and replace in the new filter, paying careful

attention to the direction of flow as indicated on the filter, and

ensuring the new filter is installed in the same direction as the

old filter. Do this with each inline filter your system has.

8. If the system was unhooked to change the filters, hook it back

up now. Open the angle adapter ball valve on the feed water

line, and open the tank ball valve.

9. Open the faucet, and tilt the system back and forth and side to

side to help work the air out of the lines

10. Allow the system some time to start producing water from the

faucet, depending on the system and water pressure this may

take up to 30 minutes. When the water first comes out it may

be black as the carbon fines in the post filter rinse out, this is

normal. Once you are getting a steady flow of water (anything

from a steady drip to a small stream, depending on membrane

size and water pressure), shut the faucet off.

11. Allow the system to fill the tank. Depending on the system and

water pressure, this can take anywhere from 1 - 5 hours.

12. Once the tank has filled, open the faucet, allowing all the

water to drain until flow from the faucet is down to the slow

drip or stream seen in step 10. This flushes the system,

cleaning the filters and preparing them for use.

13. Repeat steps 11-12 at least once to ensure thorough flushing

of the new filters.

14. Your filters are now changed and the system is ready to use

again.

O-rings:

The filter housings on the system utilize O-rings (black rubber

washers, located in a grove right below the threads on the

housing) to seal themselves. To prevent leaks it is recommended

to check the O-rings every time the housings are opened. Ensure

there are no nicks, kinks, or gouges in the O-ring. If damage is

found, replace before continuing, otherwise, use a silicon based

lubricant (vegetable oil can be used if no silicone lubricant is

available) and lubricate the O-ring before replacing the housing.

DO NOT USE VASELINE! This will damage the O-rings and void any