Acoustech H-310C Manuale d'installazione e d'uso - Pagina 4

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WALL AND CEILING SURFACES

Now that we've covered where you should

put your speakers, let's consider where you

CAN put them.

B . I . C H-310C speakers require at least 5

depth (measured from the outside surface of the

wall). This means that they can be installed in any

space wide and deep enough for them, including

most ceilings. Ceiling plasterboard (or lath and

plaster in older homes) acts as a superb speaker

baffle.

Because the depth of H-310C ceiling speakers

is deeper than typical 2˝ x 4˝ wall studs, H-310C

cannot be installed in most walls.

Avoid:

Ceilings covered only with thin veneer

paneling – the surface isn't rigid enough and

can cause annoying vibrations and buzzing.

T-bar "drop ceilings" with very thin

fiberboard panels which can buzz and

vibrate. If you suspect this will happen,

reinforce the drop-in panel with wood or

particle board.

Any mounting area which can't provide

proper depth(clearance) for the back of the

H-310C speakers to protrude. This includes

brick or concrete walls where the wallboard

or paneling is attached to thin furring strips.

Ceilings where you know that there are

pipes, heating ducts and ESPECIALLY AC

wiring in the general vicinity.

SPEAKER WIRE PATHS

The last consideration is the obstacle course

that lies between the speakers' hoped-for

mounting positions and your stereo system.

Wire can be run through crawl spaces that lie

above your ceiling or below the floor, through

basements of second stories, or simply along the

perimeter of your listening room. We cover each

of these options in detail in the "Running con-

necting wires" section of this manual.

In general, you should pay particular attention

to the following areas:

Avoid running speaker wires close to house

electrical wiring for any distance. If you have

to run them parallel, make sure to space the

speaker wires at least two feet from the AC

line. It is, however, OK for speaker wires to

cross paths with AC line or go through the

same hole together with house wiring if they

separate before and after.

Make sure that the entire path between

speakers and amplifier is clear and not

obstructed by a major floor or ceiling joist

or masonry wall which you won't be able

to drill through.

Remember that the other end of the wires

has to come out somewhere to connect

with the amplifier. Confirm ahead of time

that you can drill an outlet hole easily and

in an unobtrusive spot.

˝ of

CLOTH DÉCOR &

PAINTABLE GRILLE(S)

If you like the designer white finish, we

recommend you use the white cloth décor

accessory grille included with your new H-310C

speaker. But if you want your speaker to com-

pletely blend in with a colored wall or accent

the surface, a paintable metal grille is also

included with your new H-310C speaker.

The speaker's outer surface is primed to

accept ordinary latex wall paint or aerosol spray

paint. Because the surface behind the perforated

grille will remain the same, you will need to

mask this area off before you begin painting.

1. First the speaker's grille must be removed.

From the back of the speaker, use the

mounting legs to push the grille off.

2. If you are going to use standard, canned, wall

paint so your speakers will match the wall

color, you will need to thin the paint to nearly

the consistency of water. This is critical since

paint with any thickness will plug the holes in

the grille which will impede the sound from

getting to the room. Once you thin the paint it

may take several coats to get good consistent

color coverage without plugging the holes in

the grille. One trick to use is to blow air

through the grille holes as you are in the

painting process to keep the holes open.

Paint the outer speaker frame and grille

separately. A medium nap roller or fine brush

will work OK if you take your time and are

careful. If you're using spray paint, make

sure that you achieve the same coverage on

both grille and frame. Take care to use very

light coats on the grille to avoid plugging the

holes (perforations). Also, be sure to spray at

different angles to achieve good even coverage

A. Trace template

outline

of the perforations and edges. You must take

extreme precautions when painting the grille not

to get paint in the holes of the grille. There's no

need to replace the grille at this time since you

will need access to the inner speaker surface

during installation.

CUTTING HOLES

FOR THE SPEAKER(S)

Wallboard is an easy surface in which to make

a relatively neat hole. Actually, the hole doesn't

even have to be that neat, since the speaker's

outer frame will cover it. Just make sure you

don't make it any bigger than the template. In

the following steps, you're going to locate a

section of ceiling between the wood framing or

in the wall between two studs, mark the outer

boundaries of the hole, drill a small hole in

the center to confirm your location and then

cut the main hole.

1. First you must determine the location of your

ceiling supports so that the speaker can be

approximately centered between them.

There are several ways to go about this:

Tap on the surface and listen to the result-

ing "THUMP". When it's deeper, you're

between studs. When it's sharper and more

flat-sounding, you're close to a stud.

Use a stud-finder, a simple little device

which works by locating the studs behind

a ceiling.

B. Drill 1 inch

C. Probe with wire

pilot hole

for stud clearance

DRAWING 5

D. Cut speaker

hole along outline