3D Upfitters AnkerMake M5 Manuale di installazione - Pagina 16

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10. Managing Enclosure Temperatures

There's not much to a 3D printer enclosure. Although ours look fancy, they're similar to

putting a card box over the printers since both designs are passively heated by the

heated beds.

We generally get two types of customers:

1. Those interested primarily in air quality.

2. Those interested mainly in print quality.

The problem is that those two goals use two diﬀerent techniques in terms of airﬂow.

For the best air quality, as much air as possible must come into the enclosure and then

be vented or ﬁltered out. All of our enclosures come with fans, and we've chosen the

CFM ratings to match the cubic size of the enclosures. This ensures enough airﬂow for

ﬁlament types like PLA, which don't like the heat, to keep the temperatures in the safe

zone.

At the same time, you want the internal temperatures higher for ﬁlaments like ABS.

This happens naturally because the recommended bed temperatures are much higher

than for PLA, typically in the 105-120C range. With the fans turned on, we shoot for

internal temps between 35C and 40C for 3D printers that use E3D hot ends because

E3D recommends that temp range to avoid clogging. Keeping the temperatures in that

range puts the least stress on the equipment and follows the manufacturer's

guidelines.

This works great for people either interested primarily in air quality or risk-averse

people who don't want to risk clogging their hot ends or decreasing the useful life of

their printers.

More experienced 3D printer owners, though, for whom a clogged nozzle is an

acceptable risk, might want to run the temperatures higher for less warping of ABS

parts or to print nylon. In those cases, you can turn oﬀ the fans or even print one of

the vent covers and not vent at all. We do the latter for our internal print farm on a

couple of machines where the temperature when printing ABS gets as high as 46C.