DIY Retractable Awnings SunCover 4000 Istruzioni per l'installazione - Pagina 6

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can go. Make sure you are taking the measurements assuming the torsion

bar is facing the house, the arms are underneath the awning and the front bar

of the awning is facing away from the house. Once you figure out where you

can put brackets on the wall -match them up with where you can put them on

the awning. Do your best to "sandwich" each arm shoulder for maximum

strength. The best location for the install brackets is no less than 8" and no

more than 16" to both sides of the arm shoulder. Once the awning is in the

brackets you will be able to make some side to side adjustments if needed.

WALL MOUNTING

Installing on Clapboard:

Clapboard is usually nailed to the wall studs and in general, the studs are very easy to find. Locate the nail heads in the clap-

board (they should be 16" on center) and you will have located the studs. With all of your measurements indicated on the

wall as described earlier, hold up your first bracket, mark the wall, and probe for the center of the wall stud using a 1/8" drill

bit. The bracket will most likely cover the extra holes which you should caulk before mounting the bracket. Once the center

of the stud has been located, pre-drill a ¼" hole the length of the lag screw – remember your goal is to get into the wall stud

a minimum of 2 ½" while not splitting the stud. Remove the bolt from the bracket and attach it to the wall using a washer and

lag screw – but do not fully tighten. Next with your level, square up the bracket and pre-drill for the second hole. Once the

second hole is drilled and the lag is started, you can proceed with tightening two lag screws, avoid over tightening and strip-

ping out the stud. Proceed in the same fashion for the rest of the brackets. Proceed to SECURING THE AWNING IN THE

BRACKETS section.

TOP VIEW OF EXTERIOR WALL

Typically, wall studs are 16" on center

"penetration

1/2

into the stud

Installing On Vinyl & Aluminum Siding:

To find the studs it may be necessary to remove or unzip the siding in the mounting location. With all of your measures in-

dicated on the wall as described earlier, hold up your first bracket, mark the wall, and probe for the

center of the wall stud using a 1/8" drill bit – the bracket will most likely cover the extra holes which

you should caulk before mounting the bracket. Now that the exact location of the bracket is deter-

mined, reinstall any unzipped siding if not already reinstalled, and draw a line around the perimeter

of the bracket on the siding. You will need to cut through the vinyl or aluminum siding and remove

all compressible material. You should get down to the exterior wall sheathing for a solid mount.

For this application you will need to build out the surface even with your siding. Most homeowners

will cut up a pressure treated 2 x 4 the size of the bracket and drill two ½" holes allowing the lag

screws to pass through. With the build out block and installation bracket in place, pre-drill a ¼" hole

the length of the lag screw – remember your goal is to get into the wall stud a minimum of 2 ½"

while not splitting the stud. Remove the bolt from the bracket and attach it to the wall using a washer and lag screw – but do

not fully tighten. With your level, square up the bracket and pre-drill for the second hole. Once the second hole is drilled and

the lag is started, you can proceed with tightening two lag screws, avoiding over tightening and stripping out the stud. Caulk

around the bracket covering the edge of the siding to create a weatherproof seal. Proceed in the same fashion for the rest

of the brackets. Proceed to SECURING THE AWNING IN THE BRACKETS section.

Installing On Brick Or Masonry:

This installation requires the use of a masonry drill bit and special mounting hardware. You may want to consider using a

liquid fastening system such as Hilti's HIT System™ – check with your local hardware store. DO NOT drill into your wall until

you have determined your fastening system. When determining mounting location, NEVER fasten to the top two levels of

brick and avoid drilling into the mortar – you want to drill into the center of the brick whenever possible. Make sure you use

a level, don't assume that the bricks are level. Some brick faces are not structural, but are facades only. If this is the case,

make sure your fasteners are penetrating into the structural members behind the brick face.