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At this stage, we want to focus on the forward / backward drift, so focus on getting that as close to perfect as

possible, DO NOT WORRY ABOUT ANY SIDE DRIFT. You should have an ever so slight forward bias as it

takes off, not unlike a forward drift. If not, adjust both linkages one half turn at a time until you do (test fly /

hover after each adjustment). If you find after each successive adjustment, there is in a middle point between

forward and backwards and you just can't get it right, adjust it for a slight forward bias and then use the trims

on the sticks to get it hovering perfectly and balanced against forward / backward drift.

When you have it trimmed to compensate for forward and backward drift, make a note of any side drift and

what direction you move the aileron stick to correct that drift while it is hovering. If it is drifting to the left, the

right (aileron) servo arm linkage is too high, if it is drifting to the right, the right (aileron) servo arm linkage is

too low. There may be only one full or half turns to the link to bring it back, if the drift is severe, maybe it

needs more turns, adjust the link one half turn at a time and test hover after each adjustment until the drift

eliminated, if you find you can't get it perfect, fine tune it again with the tx stick trims, as required.

DH9116 Transmitter – Physically change from Mode 1 to Mode 2

In light of recent events (28

, June 2012) this change is now in two parts. The first part is the physical change,

the second, requires some minor soldering skills.

To physically change the TX sticks movements from Mode 1 to Mode 2, if you feel confident of having a go will

will take about 1/2 an hour or 45 minutes work and will only require a medium "jewellers" or "hobby" type,

phillips head (+) screwdriver, a soldering iron, some fine 0.7mm 60/40 resin cored solder and some "solder

braid" or wick. Unfortunately, you'll have to crack open the back of the TX. Before you physically change over

the sticks functions, make sure you have changed the mode in the program menu settings prior to starting.

Part One;

Remove all of your batteries and remove the 6 screws in the back of the main body and two smaller screws in

the handle with the medium Phillips head jeweller's screwdriver. Gently open the back of the TX and slip out the

antenna pole from the back of the body, leaving it to remain on the front of the body. If you feel inclined slip

out the red and black wired battery power plug from the mainboard. Next, look inside the back of the TX and

you'll see the back of the sticks, move the stick you want to make into the throttle up and down (as you'd use it

as a throttle) and you'll see a small coiled spring stretch and retract, that's the spring you want to remove, it is

usually held in place by a small notched arm in the mechanism that works that side of the stick and a similar

device on the stick housing itself. Remove the top ring shaped part of the spring only from the side plate of the

housing at this stage (you'll work out how, it's pretty self-evident). Remove both screws on the top of the side

plate and gently insert a medium jewellers screwdriver or similar between the inside of the side plate itself and

the finely notched radius arm, and gently pry it up and away from the notched radius arm. When you've got it

out, you can slip free the bottom ring shaped part of the spring from the stick, if it hasn't fallen away already.

Put the spring and the side plate to one side for the time being. Do the same procedure to the stick you which

to make the throttle and reverse the procedure to install in their now new positions. Remove the screw from

metal lever type spring that is rubbing along the top of the opposite stick's finely notched radius arm and it's

adjacent screw from the side plate of the stick you want to make the throttle, turn it 180 degrees and slip the

side plate into the recesses where you took the other one from, and push it home, in the process making sure

the stick axle is also within the hole in the side plate (wriggle to stick to re-centre the axle into the hole if

needed), replace the top screw and position the angled part of the spring lever along the notched radius arm

and screw it in checking the tension of the spring lever to make sure it feels ok to you. It should be free, but

with a slight "notchy" feel and some minor resistance.

Part Two;

If you look at the electrical pots for the elevator / aileron stick and the throttle / rudder stick, you will notice all

but one is blue; the mode 1 throttle pot is however coloured green. You will need to physically swap the green

pot with the corresponding blue pot, which will require you to unsolder all the wires from the small pcb from

both pots, and physically swap the two pots over, then re-solder the wires back onto the small pcb on top of

the pots. The throttle stick pcb wire soldering sequence is; Top = Black, Middle = Green, Bottom = Red. The

elevator stick pcb wire soldering sequence is; Top = Black, Middle = White, Bottom = Red. Make sure there are

no "bridged" joins, and check the solders for continuity after.

Re-connect the battery power plug, if you removed it when you first opened the back of the TX. Re-install the

screws and batteries and turn the unit on. Double check that everything works within acceptable parameters,

but taking into account the new adjustments to the sticks and make sure the stick movements correspond to

the actions displayed on the LCD screen for Mode 2. If you find the new stick positions don't correspond, switch

the Tx on and off a few times and it should change over automatically. I have physically converted one of my

TX's from Mode 1 to Mode 2, to make sure the instructions I gave were as precise and detailed as possible.