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E. MAKING THE KICK WIRE

Cut a string of 50 cm. Adjust the string to

your desired length. Tie one end of the

string to the trigger plate. Tie the other

end to the trigger plate holder. Tie a few

more knots to secure the connection.

Trigger plate holder

Testing the alarm function: Now insert the

trigger plate to the connection plate. This

will separate the two metal plates. Now

check the function by turning on the

switch. There should not be buzz sound

as the connection plate are now being

separated by the plastic trigger plate.

Now pull out the trigger plate with string

connected to it. The buzzer will produce a

sound immediately as the two connection

plates are now in touch and a close

circuit is produced. You may now stop the

buzz by switching it off or by inserting the

trigger plate into the connection plate

again.

F. MOUNTING THE ALARM

REMARKS: YOU WILL NEED ADULT'S PERMISSION AND SUPERVISION DOING THIS.

Double

adhesive tapes

Double

On the similiar level

adhesive

as the alarm case just

tapes

mounted, use the

double adhesive

tapes provided to

mount the wall mount

to the door surface.

G. SETTING THE ALARM

Trigger plate

Insert the trigger plate to the connection plate

of the alarm case.

Test the alarm set up by closing the door

then opening it again. When the trigger

plate is being pulled out from the

connection plate,

the alarm will be

triggered and produces a buzzing sound.

If you would like the alarm be triggered

with small opening of the door, make the

string shorter by winding the unwanted

length to the trigger plate holder (C9),

and vice versa.

Hang the door plate

Mount your alarm case to the

provided

door surface. You may use the

those "UNWANTED

double adhesive tapes

INTRUDERS". It's

provided for this purpose.

cool.

The intruder alarm does not only apply to the door, it also applies to your drawer

for security. Do you have any suggestion for intruder alarm application?

Snap the trigger plate holder to

the wall mount.

Switch on the alarm.

warn

H. TROUBLE SHOOTING

If the trigger plate is pulled out and the buzzer does not produce a sound:

1. Check if all connection points are intact and are connected in correct order.

2. Check if the batteries are too old, or are installed in the correct polarities.

3. Check if the switch at the battery case is switched on.

4. Check if the metal connection plates are touching each other when the trigger plate is removed.

If the plates happen to be detached from each other, the circuit is not complete. You may ask an

adult's assistance to bend the upper metal plates downward so that it could touch the lower metal

plate again.

REMARKS: When the alarm is not in use, please switch it off and wind whole length of the

kick wire to the wall mount. It is further recommended that the batteries should also be

removed.

I. FUN FACTS

How does your the intruder alarm work?

After you have finished the installation of the intruder alarm, the connection formed an

open circuit. There are two points at the circuit which control the flow of current to the

buzzer: the switch built on the battery case and the plastic trigger plate inserted between

the connection plates. When alarm is set up and switch is on, the only disconnection point

is the trigger plate. The trigger plate is made of plastic which insulate the electric current

from flowing through. When the door is opened, the trigger plate will be taken away. Thus,

the two metal plates come to contact with each other. The circuit is now a closed circuit.

The buzzer is turned on when the current pass through it.

Some things about electricity...

In the intruder alarm, we only use the battery which produces the one-way direct current

(d.c). That is the current only flows in one direction ( positive to negative ). However, the

electricity supplied from the power station is alternating current (a.c). The current does not

only flow in one direction, it flows backwards and forwards around the circuit at a certain

frequency (positive to negative and negative to positive).

The wire of most electrical appliance normally consists of three insulated wires: the live,

the neutral and the earth wires. The live wire goes positive "+" and negative "-"

alternatively, making the current flow backwards and forwards around the circuit. The

neutral wire provides the return path for the current to flow back to the mains socket. The

earth wire is a safety wire which connects the metal body of the electrical appliance to the

earth for grounding the electricity leakage. Also, most electrical appliances have another

safety device - fuse. It is a thin wire of short length which will overheat and melt in case the

current is higher than the specified value. If a fault develops and a large current flows

through the circuit, the fuse melts and breaks the circuit in order to prevent the cable from

overheating which may cause a fire.