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2. When you're reasonably sure of where the

ceiling joist (studs or framing) are (and are

TOTALLY sure that there isn't an electrical

cable, water pipe or heating duct in that vicinity

of your proposed cutout) position one of the

cardboard mounting templates and draw

around the inside outline with a pencil.

3. Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the pencil

outline which you have just drawn.

4. Obtain a length of stiff wire such as an un-

wound, totally un-bent coat hanger. Bend it

so that the last 12 inches is at a right angle to

the rest.

5. Insert the angled part into the 1-inch hole you

just drilled and probe to left and right to con-

firm that a stud is not close on either side.

If there is a close stud on one side, just re-

position the cardboard template a few inches

in the opposite direction and re-draw your

pencil outline, keeping the 1-inch hole within

the pencil outline's inner boundaries.

6. If there are no obstructions, cut the hole along

the pencil outline. If the surface is wallboard,

simply cut it increasingly deeper with utility

knife until it gives way and then pull it out by

grasping the cut-out through the 1-inch hole.

If you're dealing with lath and plaster or

thick paneling, you need to use a different tech-

nique. Drill 1-inch holes at opposite sides of

the pencil outline. Then use a keyhole saw or

even a hacksaw blade with VERY slow strokes

to saw through and remove the inner surface.

7. Temporarily place the B . I . C speaker into the

cut-out to insure that it fits properly. It's OK

if the hole is slightly large, since it will be

covered by the speaker's outside frame.

Actual installation will happen later, after

you've routed the speaker wires.

8. Repeat if installing more than one speaker.

9. Now it's time to drill the hole on the OTHER

end – at the point where the wires from the

speakers will exit to the amplifier/receiver.

Use the same 1-inch drill bit as before.

If you want a totally finished job, install an

outlet box against a stud and cover it with a

TV cable or single outlet plate which has one

hole in the middle for the wires to exit from.

DRAWING 6

RUNNING

CONNECTING WIRE(S)

Now you know where the wire(s) have to run.

It's time to actually route them.

If you have an attic or overhead crawl space,

your two steps are:

1) Route wire(s) up from the amplifier to the

crawl space;

2) Route wire(s) across the crawl space to the

speaker(s).

ROUTING WIRE UP TO SPEAKER

(ATTIC CRAWL SPACE)

See Drawing 6

1. You're about to ascend into your attic.

Grab the following:

Tape measure

Cordless drill with a 1-INCH BIT (or non-

cordless model with long extension cord)

A VERY long roll of speaker wire

Wire cutters – either diagonal pliers or

wire strippers which include a cutting surface.

Plumb bob or string with a small weight

(such as a metal nut) on the end

Tape – any kind will do

2. Crawl up into the attic with all the afore-

mentioned stuff and proceed to a spot that's

directly over a speaker cut-out hole.

3. Time to use that roll of cable. Push a cable

through the speaker cut-out.

4. Making sure the end doesn't get pulled back

up through the hole, reel out cable while

moving across the attic/crawl space until you

reach the location above your amplifier.

5. Extend at least 10 (TEN) more feet of cable

for the roll and cut it.

6. You now have a cable running from the

speaker. Repeat steps above if installing

more than one speaker. Time to get them

down the wall to where the amplifier will be.

7. Drill a 1-inch hole through the horizontal

2 x 4 directly above the amplifier wall outlet.

DRAWING 7

8. Now you're going to guide cables down to

where they'll emerge from the wall. Since this

hole isn't very big, just stuffing them down and

grabbing them won't work. Instead, it's time

for the plumb bob or string-with-weight (or

wire if there's insulation to contend with).

Tape the two cable ends (which come from

the speakers) to the plumb bob string just

above the weight and lower the whole thing

down through the 1-inch hole above the

amplifier. You'll probably have to "feed out"

the attached cable to get the weight to descend.

9. Continue "feeding out" both cables until they

and the weight hit bottom. Tie the free end of

the plumb bob string to something so that it

doesn't fall down the hole.

10. Exit the attic crawl space.

11. Go over to the 1-inch amplifier wire hole

and look for the extended string/plumb

bob and attached cables. If they're not visible,

form a small hook on the end of your stiff

wire/coat hanger, fish around for them, and

pull them through the hole. Then rescue the

plumb bob from the attic.

12. At the speaker holes, things are much easier.

You can just reach through and grab the cables.

Pull their whole free length out the cut

speaker holes. You've done it!

HOOKING UP

YOUR SPEAKER(S)

The main thing to remember when hooking up

a speaker is that two conductors in the speaker

wire are not interchangeable. One will be used as

a POSITIVE (+) conductor and the other as a

NEGATIVE (-) conductor. These correspond to

the RED (+) and BLACK (-) connectors on your

B . I . C Ceiling Speaker and also to the speaker

terminals on your amplifier or receiver.

IDENTIFYING "+" and "-"

Your need to be able to discriminate between

the two conductors in the zip cord.

If your wire has transparent insulation, this is

easy: One conductor will be copper-colored and

the other silver-colored. Generally, professionals

denote the copper one as POSITIVE (+) and

the silver one as NEGATIVE (-).

If you've used wire which has an opaque insu-

lation, there are still differentiating markings.

Examine the wire closely and look for:

A series of ribs or grooves on one conductor

A painted stripe

A single strand of yarn intertwined with the

multi-stranded wire in one conductor.

Denote any of these as the POSITIVE (+) con-

ductor for similar connections on both ends.