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System Troubleshooting
Regulator Troubleshooting
The majority of charging difficulties can be attributed to damage, corrosion or wear at wiring, fusing or wiring
connections. Before attempting to troubleshoot alternator or regulator issues, be sure to address the following:
1.
Remove and clean all charging system electrical connections (positive and negative). Check the voltage
regulator's harness for continuity. Wires and terminals can and will become corroded, and need to be cleaned or
replaced. Ensure that the regulator's ground wires are provided with a clean connection to system ground.
2.
Inspect and replace 10A and 1A ATC type fuses in the regulator wiring harness if fuse appear to be damaged or
corroded. Ensure that the fuse holder is also free of corrosion.
3.
Charge all batteries to their proper fully charged state, and determine if they are serviceable. If your batteries are
flooded-type, use your hydrometer to determine their condition.
4.
Check and tighten alternator belt. If the belt show signs of wear or damage, replace it. Always replace existing
belts with the finest quality replacements available.
If batteries and wiring are in suitable condition, use the following tests to determine if charging problems are a result of
a faulty alternator or regulator. These tests provide an opportunity to isolate the alternator, regulator and wiring harness
in order to determine the problem source. In order to perform these tests, you will need an independent DC meter
(preferably a digital type). In an emergency, a DC light bulb or test light can be used to help determine if power or working
grounds exist. An amp meter and a battery hydrometer with a thermometer are also helpful diagnostic tools.
Voltage Regulator Testing
Set your voltmeter to VDC and connect the negative lead to the BLACK ground wire at the regulator as shown at the
diagram at right.
1. With the ignition turned OFF, check voltage
the RED (power), Voltage Sense (Terminal #9), BLUE
(field) and BROWN (Ignition) wires in the regulator
plug.
Voltages should be as follow:
•
RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
Terminal #9 RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
BLUE wire zero volts
•
BROWN wire zero volts
2. With the ignition in the ON position (engine not
running), check voltage on the RED (power),
Secondary RED on Terminal #9 (voltage sense) BLUE
(field) and BROWN (ignition) wires in the regulator plug:
•
RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
Terminal #9 RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
BLUE wire The voltage on this wire can vary. It is typically between 4V and 11V on 12v systems and 8v to 22v on
24v systems.
•
BROWN wire equal to battery voltage
PLEASE NOTE: In systems where the ignition (BROWN) wire is supplied power via an oil pressure switch, jump
directly from test #1 to test #3.
3. With the ignition in the ON position (with engine running at 1,400 rpm fast idle), check voltage on the RED
(power), Secondary RED on Terminal #9 (voltage sense) BLUE (field) and BROWN (ignition) wires in the regulator
plug. Voltages should be as follows:
•
RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
Terminal #9 RED wire equal to battery voltage
•
BLUE wire The voltage on this wire can vary. It is typically between 4V and 11V on 12v systems and 8v to 22v on
24v systems.
•
BROWN wire equal to battery voltage
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