Dusty Strings Hammered Dulcimer 소유자 매뉴얼북 - 페이지 4

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Dusty Strings Hammered Dulcimer에 대해서도 마찬가지입니다: 소유자 매뉴얼 (18 페이지)

Dusty Strings Hammered Dulcimer 소유자 매뉴얼북
Several of our models use wound strings on some of the bass courses. As
time goes by their tone will begin to dull, as with guitar strings, and they should be
replaced. It's hard to notice the change because it is so gradual, so we recommend
choosing an easily remembered date on which to note whether a year has gone by
with the same wound strings. If so, you should treat yourself to some new ones.
All of these strings can be ordered individually or in spare string kits that contain
at least two of each size of string on your dulcimer (to cover most string breakage
situations).
R E P L
R E P L
R E P L
R E P L A A A A A C I N
R E P L
C I N
C I N
C I NG B R
C I N
G B R
G B R
G B R O K E N S T R I N
G B R
To replace a broken string, turn the string's tuning pin counter-clockwise for
three or four complete revolutions and remove the broken sections of string. This
is important because the tuning pins have fine threads that cause them to descend
further into the pinblock with each turn. Place the loop of the new string over the
string's hitch pin on the other side of the instrument and stretch it across to the
tuning pin, making sure it is sitting in position on top of its main bridge and is
passing through the appropriate hole in the opposite bridge. It is helpful to have
someone hold the loop end down on the hitch pin while positioning and stretching
the new string, but in a pinch you can devise something else to secure it your-
self —try a bulldog-type clip or rubber band.
Before you go any further, take a moment to look closely at an adjacent tuning
pin to see how the string coils neatly down the pin, with no excess wire sticking out
of the hole. This is what you're going to imitate. The neat, tight coils look good
and ensure proper string positioning. Hiding the sharp end of the wire inside the
pin keeps it from puncturing your fingers.
Cut the string with wire snips (or sacrifice a pair of nail clippers), leaving two
inches of extra length past the tuning pin. Put the end of the string inside the hole
in the pin. Hold it there and turn the pin clockwise to form a sharp right-angle
bend. Keep tension on the string as it wraps onto the pin, so that it forms tight
coils down and away from the small starting hole. Make sure the whole string is sitting in
its correct position and is not caught up on any other pins, strings, or bridge pedestals. The pin
should rotate about three times before the string becomes taut. Tune it slowly up
to proper pitch. The whole process will seem awkward at first, but becomes
smooth with practice.
A new string will stretch a bit before stabilizing, so you may need to tune it a
few times in its first hour of service.
R E S
R E S T R I N
R E S
R E S
R E S
T R I NG I N
T R I N
T R I N
T R I N
G I N G T H E W H O L E D U L
G I N
G I N
G I N
G T H E W H O L E D U L
G T H E W H O L E D U L
G T H E W H O L E D U LC I M E R
G T H E W H O L E D U L
Depending on atmospheric conditions, a string set can last a long time,
sometimes even years if there are no wound strings. Wound strings typically get
dull-sounding within a year or so and need periodic replacement (see String
Types, page 4). It is really an issue of personal preference when (or if) you replace
the whole set of strings on your instrument. If they get dark and corroded-
looking, and seem to have lost their "singing" quality, it may be time. You can go to
your local dealer and inquire about re-stringing, or dig into it yourself. It is really
very straightforward, though time-consuming.
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O K E N S T R I NG S
O K E N S T R I N
O K E N S T R I N
O K E N S T R I N
G S
G S
G S
G S
C I M E R
C I M E R
C I M E R
C I M E R
The only important thing to know about this process is that it is best to take off
and replace only one course (two strings) at a time. This allows you to maintain tension on
the instrument, and you can get it back to holding pitch more quickly. Also, you
maintain bridge placement, which protects you from having to fiddle around with
re-setting the treble bridge in its precise fifth-interval tuning placement (see
Tuning Hints on page 14). You can follow the instructions above for how to take
off the old strings and put on the new ones.
If, however, you want to give the soundboard a thorough cleaning as well as
changing the strings, you may want to remove all the strings at once, as well as the
bridges. Make sure you carefully mark the placement of the bridges (we suggest using tape for
this purpose) before you remove all the strings. The bridges are not glued down and will need to be
replaced exactly if the instrument is to be tunable. Before cleaning the soundboard, please
read the section below on your instrument's finish.
S T R I N G B U Z Z E S
S T R I N
S T R I N
S T R I N
S T R I N
If you hear a raspy, buzzing sound when you play your instrument, a string is
probably resting too lightly on a side bridge so that it vibrates against the bridge
when it is struck. If you suspect that this is happening with one of your strings,
press down on the string right next to the tuning pin and strike the string. If the
buzz is gone, you've found the culprit, and you can permanently silence it by
lowering the string so that it makes solid contact with the side bridge. Do this by
loosening the tuning pin about half turn while pushing the string down toward the
pinblock. Hold this position as you re-tighten the tuning pin. This same remedy
may apply to string buzzes on the hitch pin side. In the case of some of the higher,
right-side bass bridge strings, the opposite solution may be required: you might
find places where it seems easier to raise the string on the tuning pin and com-
pletely eliminate contact with the side bridge. This works only because the string
sections to the right of the bass bridge are not used for playing.
F I N I S H
F I N I S H
F I N I S H
F I N I S H
F I N I S H
Depending on which model you've chosen, your instrument is finished with
either black or clear semi-gloss lacquer. In both cases, caring for the finish
requires nothing more than a gentle wipe-down with a soft cloth, lightly damp-
ened with glass cleaner to remove fingerprints. Using instrument or furniture
polish or oils is not necessary or recommended. They are hard to wipe off
adequately, tend to attract and hold dust and grime, and can interfere with lacquer
bonding if you ever want finish repair work done in the future. It is better to just
keep your hammered dulcimer dust-free using a feather duster and a 2" or 3" soft-
bristle paintbrush, which works especially well for getting dust out from between
the hitch and tuning pins.
The soundboard can be cleaned with a sock stuck over the end of a yardstick.
Compressed air is also effective if the dust is loosened first with one of these
other tools. If your instrument is out of its case for long periods, a dust cover
made of soft fabric will help keep it clean. For long-lasting beauty, the best thing
you can do is keep the instrument dusted. Accumulated dust attracts and holds
moisture and oils and eventually becomes very hard to remove.
G B U Z Z E S
G B U Z Z E S
G B U Z Z E S
G B U Z Z E S
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