Bristol Clifton 4 사용자 설명서 - 페이지 8

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We recommend the use of wood logs with a moisture content of less than 20% for stoves.
Burning wet or unseasoned wood will create excess smoke emissions, tar deposits in the stove and
chimney and will not produce a satisfactory heat output. Wood fuel purchased from an approved source
may still require some drying out to remove surface water before use.
The main causes of burning problems with wood stoves is due to excessively damp wood. Wood can
appear perfectly dry on the outside or ends but still contain 40-50% water on the inside. A moisture meter
can be purchased from your retailer or fuel suppliers if you wish to check your wood source is correct. Split
a log and check the inside as well as the outside or ends.
Using your appliance for the first time
The stove needs to bed in and to allow the rope glue & paint to cure correctly. We suggest three small
kindling only fires to start each time allowing the appliance to return back to room temperature.
During these first small fires you may experience an unpleasant smell, fumes / haze as the paint cures, the
is non toxic but for your comfort open some windows to ventilate the room. This will dissipate with use. Do
not touch the paint during this time. Use small fires first slowly increasing the size and temperatures to
enable the various parts to expand normally.

Lighting the stove

First open the secondary air supply ("Airwash") slider fully. Lay some fully dry small or split logs on the grate
in a crossed pattern.
Then add plenty of kindling sticks fin a lattice pattern finishing with a firefighter on top of the 4 logs.
Light the firefighter(s) leaving the air controls fully open, if you find it necessary to leave the door ajar.
slightly for 3-5 minutes to enhance initial starting and reduce smoke emission – DO NOT leave the stove
unattended.
The kindling will burn and set light to the logs by radiation and breaking down to embers gradually and with
fewer emissions than the traditional logs on top methods.
Allow the fuel to reach a steady burn and usually the initial fuel can be left to burn down to embers without
much further attention. Next build the fire up carefully by adding a couple of small split logs or a relatively
small amount of smokeless briquettes at a time.
Do not overload the fire bed with more than two or three small logs at a time.
Once you have a good fire bed established across the grate, further fuel can be added step by step as
required.
Don't be tempted to overload the fire bed with fuel all at once or close down the
air controls too much until the fire is really well established for some time. Once the ignition period is well
under way, gradually reduce the air controls to establish the burning intensity you require.
If using smokeless fuel omit the logs & place a layer of smokeless on the base, but use plenty of kindling
with briquettes around so that the embers from the kindling ignites the smokeless. Once established reduce
the secondary air supply to a minimal setting and open the primary to establish the burning intensity you
require.
A good indication of a well established smokeless fuel fire is the widespread coverage of grey ash on the
black fuel pieces the fire will begin to die down with a significant amount of white ash showing amongst the
fuel. Gently riddle to grate by pushing and pulling the lever to remove most of the ash into the ash-pan.
Empty the ash-pan if it is nearly full and then re-fuel with a good load of briquettes. The fuel load should
initially be level with the top of the fuel retainer and not above the rear firebox cast liner.
Refuelling on to a low fire bed
If there is insufficient burning material in the fire bed to light a new fuel charge, excessive smoke emission
can occur. Refuelling must be carried out onto a sufficient quantity of glowing embers and ash that the new
fuel charge will ignite in a reasonable period. If there are too few embers in the fire bed, add suitable
kindling to prevent excessive smoking.