CustomWorks Rocket Stage-3 사용 설명서 - 페이지 11

{카테고리_이름} CustomWorks Rocket Stage-3에 대한 사용 설명서을 온라인으로 검색하거나 PDF를 다운로드하세요. CustomWorks Rocket Stage-3 14 페이지.

SETUP GUIDELINES:

When looking for the "perfect set-up" it is important to remember 2 things...

1) Keeping things simple is best.

2) As you are making your set-up change, the track is changing too! Ask a local racer what the track

usually does from begining to end, especially day to night.

- Start your car's ride height with it equal at all four corners to start. Use the shock collars to adjust

ride height by measuring the distance under the chassis when the car is sitting on a FLAT & LEVEL

surface. With foam tires in the 2.6" range, .600" to the top of the chassis (1/2" under the chassis) is a

good measurement to start with.

- Shock collars can only jack weight and adjust the car's handling when the car makes ALL 4 shocks

squat when the car is set down. Use the RF shock collar to adjust how the car ENTERS the corner. Use

the RR shock collar to adjust how the car exits the corner ON-POWER. Use the LF shock collar to make

the car turn in less, and off the corner more.

- It is best to have a little bit of brake drag when you let off the gas, this will allow for a more

controlable car in ALL conditions. Increasing how much the brake drags will make your car turn into the

corner harder but can make the car also much more loose to drive into the corner. With most speed

controls today a drag brake strength of 10-20% is a good range to work with.

SET-UP GLOSSARY:

Caster: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.

Increasing the angle will make the car more stable out of the turn and down the straights and increase

steering entering a turn. Decreasing the angle will make the car feel more "touchy" at high speeds and

help steering while exiting the turn.

Camber Gain: Angle of the Camber Link relative to the Suspension Arm. Lowering the camber link

on the shock tower OR raising the camber link on the castor block will INCREASE the camber angle of

the tire when the suspension is compressed. Raising the camber link on the shock tower OR lowering

the camber link on the castor block will DECREASE the camber angle of the tire when the suspension is

compressed. There is not a "correct" set-up and once again too much of anything is generally bad. This

will help change the "feel" of the car thru the turns.

Camber Link Length: Comparing this to the length of the Suspension Arm from each pivot point and

keeping the Camber the same, making the link shorter will decrease traction for that corner of the car

while making it longer will increase traction for that corner of the car. Once the camber link is equal to

or greater than the Suspension Arm pivots, the gain of traction ends. Also a shorter camber link will

increase camber gain and a longer decrease camber gain.

Shock Angle: Leaning the shock toward the car is effectively like changing to a softer spring.

Standing the shock closer to vertical is effectively like changing to a stiffer spring. Try when the car is

working well and when one spring change is TOO much for your set-up.

Ride Height: Check by pushing the chassis down once or twice to simulate bumps on the track.

Having the front end higher than the rear will make the car increase rear traction especially out of

the turn. Having the front end lower than the front will make the car increase front traction especially

entering the turn. Generally its safe to start the car with the ride heights even.

Rear Toe-In: Front edge of car tires point toward the chassis as viewed from above the car.

Increasing the angle toward the car will increase rear traction while decreasing front traction.

Decreasing the angle will do the opposite.