Floatron Solar Powered Pool Purifier Operating Manual - Page 4

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ELECTRODE CLEANING

The floatron is the only purifier which, in addition to generating beneficial mineral

ions, collects undesirable minerals such as calcium and iron. This has the effect of

softening your water. The sacrificial mineral electrode is designed to slowly erode

away, and in the process will form a scale build up which will require occasional

cleaning. The spring electrode may also form a scale, which normally consists of

calcium, and should also be cleaned. The initial rate of buildup will be quicker in

harder water, and will slow as the water becomes progressively softened. Heavily

scaled electrodes will restrict electrical flow and slow the ionization process,

therefore it is advantageous to clean them on a weekly basis:

Lay unit face down, preferably on grass.

Remove thumbscrew, screen, and endcap.

Blast with a jet of water from garden hose nozzle, from different directions,

to knock off loose material and scale.

Reduce the water flow, and with water running over the electrodes,

attack buildup with cleaning brush to remove most of the remainder of

residues,

The center electrode need not be cleaned down to bare metal, although the

spring is relatively easy to clean completely. If the majority of the scale is removed,

the floatron will perform satisfactorily. It is not possible to clean the electrodes too

much or too often. The cleaner the electrodes, the more efficient the operation.

Occasionally, the screen will require cleaning to ensure a free flow of water and

ion exchange. Because the mesh is very fine, deposits can slowly choke the

openings in the screen and restrict water flow. To clean the white mesh screen:

Hose out loose debris.

Immerse screen in a jar of vinegar until visually free of blue / white scale

buildup OR mix about 1/3 Muratic acid/Hydrochloric acid to 2/3 water

and place basket into the jar containing the mixture. The cleaning process

will take a minute or less. Do not expose basket to the acid mix for more

than a minute.

Rinse basket and reinstall on floater

ELECTRODE REPLACMENT

The mineral electrode is sacrificial and design to slowly disintegrate. After an

average of 12 - 24 months, depending on conditions, the electrode will wear

away and require replacement. You will know this when it is 'pencil thin', or about

1/4 inch at its thinnest point. To remove the spent electrode:

Remove screen and endcap, and clean parts.

While compressing spring electrode with one hand, rotate center

electrode counterclockwise. If necessary, use pliers for leverage.

Continue to unthread until free.

The procedure for installing the electrode is in reverse order, and can be found

under 'INITIAL ASSEMBLY'.

NOTE: Always keep the same end of the electrode to the floater. Do not swap

ends when removing and replacing your electrode.

MAINTENANCE

It is important to spend a few minutes a week to monitor the water balance, clean

the unit, and to learn the trends. After a couple of months of experience, you

should have a good idea about how little chlorine or oxidizer, is required, how

much floating time does the job, the best way and frequency to clean the

electrodes, etc.

The floatron works well with trace chlorine, or any other oxidizer of your choice.

Algaecides, conditioners, clarifies, etc., etc., are unnecessary. Higher chlorine levels

may be required with an increase in water temperature, increased swimmer load,

rainfall, or new water added. If using liquid chlorine, add at or after sundown

because the sun's rays quickly neutralize chlorine. The recommended levels are not

absolute and may vary with changing water conditions. What works best for your

pool is determined by experience. Allow your water to seek its own balance. Do

not arbitrarily alter the pH, apply large doses of chlorine (AKA 'Shock'), add

algaecide, add conditioner, or try to change perfectly clear water. Give your pool

water time to stabilize, and remember, SIMPLICITY IS THE KEY.