Becos Micro Booster Installation Manual
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THE MICRO BOOSTER ONBOARD PREAMP
INSTALLATION MANUAL
SPECIFICATIONS
Input impedance: >1MΩ
Output Impedance: ~100Ω
Frequency Response: 10Hz – 30KHz (flat)
Tone Stack: Center frequency 720Hz, Lows +/‐6dB @ 70Hz, Highs +/‐
6dB @ 3.5KHz (no frequency change in center position)
THD: 0.2% (+0Bu in / +15dBu out, 1.0 kHz, 600Ω Load, 18VDC power)
Optimal Battery Voltage: 9VDC ±20% up to 20VDC
Recommended Battery: 9V Alkaline (or 2 batteries in series for 18V)
Power Consumption: <0.1mAh @ 9VDC
Product Size
49.3mm (length), 31.6mm (depth), 27.7mm (height)
Product Weight: 54 gr.
Packed Weight: 160 gr.
ADVICE, WARNING & CAUTIONS
‐ Read this manual before installation and keep it handy.
‐ Never pull up the push‐push switch‐pot by force.
‐ Remove the knob from the switch‐pot only when switch is in UP
position.
‐ Do not attempt to remove the shielding cover and damage the
board.
‐ Do not overheat the circuit boards or any electronic component.
‐ If sharp tools are to be used in installation, handle with care and
never use force to have things done.
‐ We may change products specifications, design, and features
without notice.
INTRODUCTION
Built with monolithic amplifiers employing bipolar technology with
innovative high‐performance concepts for pristine audio, the Micro
Booster MK4 has an exceptional frequency response and extremely
low noise & distortion.
The Micro Booster MK4 integrates a Baxandall tone stack which adds
flexibility for independent tonal tweaking of Lows and Highs. With
mild adjustability of +/‐9dB at 70Hz and 2.5KHz before the 0‐16dB
variable general Gain, it can be configured as a Clean Flat Boost or
Mid Boost, Treble Boost, Lows Boost, Boosted V‐Cut, etc. without
going into extremes. With tone knobs centered, the boost is
completely flat.
Usually, an instrument is wired like this:
The booster will come latest in the guitar signal path, after the
pickups, volume & tone controls, pickup switch and the main signal
will be fed through one Hot Wire and Ground.
An optional Push‐Push switch‐pot may be soldered directly on the
electronic circuit board. If the switch‐pot is not used, a DPDT switch
must be wired to the board to perform signal routing instead.
The potentiometer side of the switch‐pot IS NOT part of booster's
circuit, and is meant to replace volume or tone potentiometer in
your instrument for the convenience of having a routing switch and a
potentiometer in one device. The potentiometer has to be rewired
just as it used to be ‐ passive. If it is the tone control that is put in
place of, the tone capacitor has to be moved to the new pot as well.
A 10‐pin header connector is available on booster's PCB where all
the wiring should be connected. Several wires can be directly
soldered to the board, if a permanent connection is desired.
A, B, C ‐ corresponding to potentiometer lugs (which will replace
actual potentiometer in your guitar). This is where wires Gray, Purple
and Blue will be connected (the colors may be different, but they are
just wires connecting the new potentiometer to the rest of the
instrument's circuit. These pins in the header connector are doubled
by connecting holes on the circuit board if soldering the wires may
seem a better option. They also help to install the capacitor or the
hot wire, depending of where you install the booster in your guitar.
‐
+ and
for connecting the battery. Red wire is positive, Black wire is
negative.
RNG (ring), OUT (tip), GND with corresponding wires (usually
Orange, Red, and Brown) connect the new TRS‐type (Tip, Ring,
Sleeve) output connector to the board. This connector replaces the
original TS‐type of connector (Tip, Sleeve) on the instrument. A TS‐
type mono jack is required to switch the power to the booster. A
TRS‐type of jack will not work. When the instrument cable TS jack is
inserted, the Ring to Ground in the connector is shorted by the
instrument plug's Sleeve and the booster is powered (it stays
powered regardless of the push‐push switch position, up or down).
IN and GND are the points where the Hot Wire (usually White) and
the Ground Wire (usually Black) will be connected. The Ground Wire
should be connected to instrument's main ground. No other
grounding connection is needed to the Booster.
Several shortcut points on the board (A to Ground, C to Ground, and
B to Input) may be used to avoid using more wires, when possible.
Simply short these interconnecting points with a drop of solder.
For some setups, the Tone Capacitor may be installed directly on the
booster's board (in between B pot wiper and Ground). The Tone
Capacitor can only be soldered from the outside of the board where
the capacitor is marked on the board. Do not attempt to remove the
shielding cover because you will risk damaging the board.
PREPARATION
We recommend shielding the electronics compartment in your
instrument with conductive sticky cooper foil if it's not done from
the factory already (aluminum works better than nothing). Be sure
to connect this shielding to guitar's main ground point. Shielding is
not necessary for the booster but for the loose wires in the area,
which are not properly shielded. Such wires may become an antenna
and transfer the EM interference to the booster. You may use the
free Ground point on the booster board as the Main Ground Point
where all grounds are to be connected.
THE NO‐POT BOOSTER