Draper 36761 Gebruiksaanwijzing - Pagina 15

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For all cutting operations the upper

blade guard should be adjusted to just

clear the work being cut (approx. 3mm

⁄

"). Not only does this provide the

best operator safety, but it also brings

the blade guides closer to the work

giving more accurate results and easier

control.

Use both hands to feed the workpiece

into the blade. The work must be held

flat on the table at all times to prevent

binding of the blade. Use a steady even

pressure just sufficient to keep the blade

cutting at full speed.

Always use a rip fence or mitre guide

where possible to eliminate any

sideways slip of the work. This is most

important when the table is tilted to an

angle.

Always plan work ahead. The

tradesmans' rule is "measure twice, cut

once". It is best to finish a cut in one

continuous operation, but frequently

backtracking will be necessary. Turn off

the motor and allow the blade to come

to a complete stop before backing the

blade out of the cut.

Remember that the blade removes

material during the cut. This gap created

by the blade is called the kerf and must

be allowed for when cutting to exact

sizes. Plan your cut so that the kerf is to

the scrap side of the line you wish to cut.

If necessary, allow a little more for finish

sanding.

RIP SAWING

This term refers to the cutting of timber

with the grain rather than across the

grain.You can rip wood freehand to a

previously drawn line, but best results

are obtained by using the rip fence. If

the table is level, set the rip fence to the

left hand side of the blade. This allows

you to use your right hand to hold the

work firmly against the fence. The width

of cut indicator on the front of the

worktable shows the distance between

the blade and the right hand edge of the

timber.

When cutting a bevel rip, with the table

tilted at any angle up to 45˚, set the rip

fence to the right hand side of the blade

if the width of the workpiece allows it.

With the fence on the downhill side of

TIPS ON USING YOUR BANDSAW

the table it will help support the work

against slip. The width of cut indicator

shows the distance between the blade

and the rip fence at the table surface.

CROSS CUTTING

This term refers to the cutting of timber

across the grain. This type of cut can also

be made freehand or with the aid of the

mitre guide. The mitre guide can be

adjusted to a 45˚ angle to assist during

mitre cuts, and with compound mitre

cuts.

Make sure the work is held firmly

against the table and against the face of

the mitre guide. Be careful to keep your

fingers away from the blade, particularly

at the end of the cut.

FREEHAND SAWING

The ease with which many different and

varied shapes can be cut is one of the

most important features of the bandsaw.

Select a blade suitable for cutting the

smallest radius in the work you have

planned.

When freehand cutting always feed the

work slowly so that the blade can follow

the line you wish to saw. Make sure not

to drag the work off line forcing the

blade sideways, or twisting it.

In many cases, it is helpful to rough cut

about 6mm away from the line in difficult

curves and corners. In the case of very

sharp curves which may be too tight for

the blade, make relief cuts onto the face

of the curve so that these scraps will fall

as the final radius is sawn.

CUTTING NONFERROUS METALS

Metal must only be cut at the lowest

speed on your bandsaw. Never attempt

metal sawing at wood cutting speed -

your blade will burn up very quickly.

Other than speed and correct blade

selection, metal sawing is much the

same as wood sawing, however, the rate

at which you feed the work into the

blade must be reduced to only as fast as

the blade can cut.

Also, metals do not have the 'give' that

timber has, so the work must be held

very firmly to prevent twisting or

misalignment of the blade while

feeding.

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