DIAQUIP QHS-400 Gebruikershandleiding - Pagina 10

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DIAMOND BLADES

About Diamond Blades (continued)

See below: "SHARPENING A GLAZED BLADE"

Never use a sharp motion or the blade will be damaged. Conversely, don't feed too gently

or the diamond segments will become glazed. Keep the blade steadily working, but don't be

abusive or give the blade shock impacts into the work surface.

Take great care to keep the blade perpendicularly aligned to the kerf. If the blade is crooked,

it will easily bind. When cutting reinforced concrete, if embedded steel such as rebar is

encountered, take special care. When the steel is encountered, the water will generally go

clear and vibration will begin. Reduce the feed pressure by about 1/3 and let the blade go at its

own pace, if there is too much vibration the blade may be destroyed. Once the steel is passed,

continue normally. A properly sharp blade with good diamond exposure should be able to

cut through rebar if handled well.

NOTE: Never use a wet-type diamond blade without water. It will overheat and be

destroyed.

NOTE: When using dry blades, do not allow them to overheat. It is best to cut no longer

than about 60 seconds at a time, with 10 second running in air cool down times in

between.

Always mount the blade with the arrow matching the direction of rotation of the machine (A

direction arrow is marked on the blade guard).

WARNING: Never use blades for cutting a material other than the material they were

intended for.

SHARPENING A GLAZED BLADE

Diamond blades may become glazed (dull) for various reasons, such as cutting reinforced

concrete with an excess of embedded steel, or from cutting with too little downforce which can

lead to the segments becoming polished or "glazed". Once the diamond segments are glazed,

the blade's cutting performance will degrade and the segments will overheat. To resharpen the

blade, turn down the water feed and make a few cuts in a very soft, abrasive material such as

brick.

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MOUNTING THE BLADE

First make sure that the machine is unplugged.

Then, using the 17mm combination wrench, engage the arbor bolt and turn the arbor while

pressing on the arbor lock (See page 2). When the arbor reaches the right position, the arbor

lock will be allowed to engage. Then the arbor bolt may be loosened and the plain outer flange

may be removed. (It is a standard, right hand thread, so turn anticlockwise to loosen.)

The inner flanges are specific to the blade arbor bore diameter. There are three possible blade

arbor bore sizes depending on the market where the machine is sold: 20mm, 22.2mm (7/8"),

and 25.4mm (1") Check the inner flange to ensure that the size matches the bore of the blade

which you intend to use.

The 7/8" and 1" sizes each have a specific inner flange which must be used. For the 20mm

size, the bore directly engages the arbor and thus uses a plain flange on both the inside and

outside.

Inspect the blade before use. It must not be cracked, warped or damaged in any way that would

cause a hazard in operation. Loose diamond segments can be ejected at high speed, causing

possible injury. Always check that the diamond segments are not under cut. If the diamond

segments are thinner or nearly thinner than the blade core, the kerf will be too tight fitting and

could easily lead to kickback.

Ensure that the flanges and blade bore are clean and undamaged and that everything fits

properly. The flanges may not be used if they are warped, the surface is uneven, burred or if

they are dirty. The arbor bolt and arbor threads must be undamaged. Inspect the blades for

segment damage, arbor hole damage or any other damage which could cause hazardous

operation.

The protruding edge of the inner flange should be facing the blade. Then mount the blade to the

inner flange and add the outer flange. Add the arbor bolt and tighten to 15-25 Nm.

WARNING: Do not attempt to mount a blade which does not match the mounting

hardware. It will lead to eccentric running and vibration which will be uncontrollable.

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