Green Speed GT Series Podręcznik - Strona 7

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Cables - Brakes

Connect up the brakes next following the photo

provided. (Pic. 8) Also double check that the clasps

bolts are firmly tight with two 9mm spanners. Check

the brakes by squeezing the brake levers. Should they

not feel right for you, check the Cable Adjustment

section below. Check that the Cable outer casing is

seated into the Cable adjuster on the lever, and then

seated properly into the adjusting barrel at the

drum.

To adjust the drum brakes (lets start with the right hand side) turn the bars first to the left, lift the

right hand wheel so it can spin freely and keep turning out the adjusting barrel at the drum till you

can hear the drum pads just start rub. Back off one 1/4 turn and screw down the locking ring. Only

ever do the locking ring hand tight!!! The barrel is hollow for the cable to run through it and is not

strong enough to have you tighten the locking ring by mechanical means.

Do the same for the left wheel turning the bars right, but this time make sure you get an even feel

between the two levers. In other words you should be able to feel the same pressure pulling the

levers back to the same point.

Now for the fun of gear adjustment. We will start with the front derailleur, as it is easier to adjust,

and gives you a good start for the rear. Firstly determine the problem you are having, is it A/ won't

go into the large chainring or B/ won't go into the smallest chainring?

A/ The cable may have stretched. Check this by returning the chain to the smallest chainring

(shifter all the way forward) and feeling the cable between the cable stop and the derailleur, is it

excessively slack? If so undo the cable pinch bolt and pull through the excess cable and tighten

the pinch bolt. Try shifting to the large chainring again. If it still doesn't work turn the 'H' limit

screw (small screws on top of the derailleur) out by a quarter of a turn each time and retry the

shift. If you unscrew it too far, the chain will fall off the outer side.

B/ Loosen off the 'L' limit screw slowly and it should drop down, if not the cable may be too tight.

To check this, undo the cable pinch bolt, loosen the limit screw again until it drops down and

reattach the cable. Double check that it still goes into the large chainring. Also check the cable to

see if it is still running smooth by undoing the pinch bolt, holding the cable in one hand and

shifting with the other hand. Lubricate or replace the cable if it is hard or rough to pull through.

If neither of these things work, your derailleur could be worn or misaligned. See your dealer for

further assistance.

The rear derailleur is similar in that if it won't go into the larger sprockets, there is not enough

cable tension, or into the smaller sprockets if there is not enough cable slack. Turn the barrel screw

in for slack and out for tension. As with the front derailleur, use the limit screws only as a last

resort, as these don't effect the indexing of your gears. Loosen the 'H' screw if it won't go into the

smallest sprocket or tighten if it goes between the smallest sprocket and the dropout. Loosen the

'L' screw if it won't go into the largest sprocket or tighten it so that the derailleur doesn't go into

the spokes (not too good if this happens). If you run out of adjustment with the barrel screw you

will need to wind it all the way back in, put the shifter all the way forward and loosen the pinch

bolt and pull through the excess cable and tighten the pinch bolt again.

Assembly

Pic. 8