Duerkopp Adler 744-122 Manual de Instruções - Página 7
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2.4 Needles - Yarns - Thread tension
Needles
System 934 SIN needles are to be used.
(SIN = slightly rounded point)
Recommended needle thickness:
Nm 80
Nm 90 for thin material
Nm 100 for medium material
Nm 110
Nm 120 for thick material
Throat plates with wider stitch holes are to be used
for needle thicknesses above Nm 100. See Section
1.3 Optional Equipment.
Turn main switch off!
- Risk of Injury -
When inserting the needle care is to be taken that
the hollow neck of the needle points to the left
when seen from the operating side of the sewing
unit.
Yarns
High sewing security and good sewability are
achieved with covering yarns, especially
a) with dual polyester endless - polyester covered,
e.g. Epic Poly Poly, Rasant x, Saba C and
others;
b) with dual polyester endless - cotton covered,
e.g. Frikka, Koban, Rasant and others.
As yarn thickness dependent on the needle
thickness we recommend:
Needle thicknessCovering yarn
Nm
polyester-endless
90
120 (Nm 80/2)
100
100 (Nm 65/2)
110
75 (Nm 50/2)
Concerning the threading of the needle and bobbin
threads see the enclosed operating card.
Thread tension
The tension of the needle thread must be greater
than that of the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread
tension is therefore equipped with a spring of
thinner wire.
Too high thread tensions cause the material being
sewn to pucker.
A too low bobbin thread tension can cause faulty
stitches.
For drawing the threads for trimming or by seam
interruptions the needle thread tension is released
pneumatically.
2.5 Inserting the material and starting
the sewing unit
The sewing unit is equipped at the factory for a
specific work procedure, e.g. for primary seams, for
sewing waistbands on trousers or for sewing
waistbands on skirts.
For each of these work procedures there are
multiple insertion methods with variing switching
stages for feeding, suction and starting available.
For the choice of insertion methods for each work
procedure and type of handling see Section 4.5 of
the Microcontrol summary in the manual annex.
Switching on the feed procedure occurs via the "E"
key of the control unit. Then an activation through
the STOP key is necessary.
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