Australian Railway Kits NSWGR D57 Руководство по эксплуатации - Страница 4

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before adding hand rail (0.4mm wire). Fix in place the builders plate (A) - check a photo or plan for the exact location.

Fix the turned brass side frame mounts (40x4) into the bogie side frames (38x4). For good electrical pickup low melt solder is

recommended here. The bogie stretchers (43x2) are on the etched nickel silver value gear fret - remove them and check that

the holes either side fit over the brass side frame mounts (40x4), you may need to enlarge the holes slightly, then fold the

stretchers as per Drawing 2.

Push the brass wheel bearings (39x8) into the bogie side frames using low melt solder if necessary, and attach the side frames

to the stretcher with spacer screws (41x4) and washers (42x4). Tighten the screws and gently ease the side frames apart to fit

the wheel sets (44x4) in place, making sure the insulated wheels are on the same side for each bogie - see Drawing 2. Using

the bogie mounting screws (45x2) and the washers (46x2) attach the assembled bogies to the tender.

Chassis Drawings 4 and 5 (Parts 129 - 222)

Remove the frames (129) and (130) from the fret and clean up any holding tabs. Clean out the bearing holes with a 3.7mm

drill bit. Push the axle bushes (131x8) in from the outside face of the frames (the

etch folding line at the rear is on the

of the frame). Place each frame on a flat piece of scrap timber to hold the bearings in place (outside face of the frame

outside

down) and run solder around the edge of the bearings to secure them in the frames.

Using the spacer screws (133x4), fix the two turned brass chassis spacers (132x2) to the inside of one frame. Align the cross

hole in each spacer vertically before attaching the other side frame. Position the front spacer plate (135) (from the chassis

etch) as shown, then position the rear spacer plate (134) in position. Fold the rear of each side frame outwards 90°. Remove

the motor mounting bracket (138) from the chassis etch and fold the end upwards to 90°, then fold the two side tabs down 90°.

Test fit the motor mount in the chassis as shown - to achieve a neat fit you may need to file off the lip caused when the holes

in the side tabs were threaded. Fix the motor mount in place using spacer screws (144x2). Trim M2 screw (142) to a length of

11mm before fitting to the rear chassis spacer (132) with nut (143). Fit M2 screw (217) to the front spacer plate (135) using

nut (218).

Temporarily fit the axles and wheels to the front and rear axle holes and place the chassis on a section of level track to check

that the chassis sits properly on the track. If necessary, loosen the spacer screws and adjust, then remove the wheels and axles

and solder the front and rear spacer plates (135 and 134) in position.

Brake gear. Trim four pieces of 0.7mm wire to a length of 25mm, pass these through the holes in the top of the mainframes

and solder in place. Clean out the holes (top and bottom) in the brakes (168x6) and brake detail plates (169x6) to accept

0.7mm wire before removing them from the fret.

Turn the chassis on its side and place the strip of timber supplied over the axle bushes and slip the brakes (168x6) and the rear

brakes (166xpair) onto the 0.7mm wire - the timber ensures they are correct distance off the frame. Align the brakes vertically

and solder in place. Cut another four 25mm lengths of 0.7mm wire and pass through the holes in the bottom of the brake

shoes, at the same time adding the brake roding (170x2) which sits against the inside edge of the frame. Now add the brake

detail plates (169x6) and the rear brake shoes (167x2). Snip off the 0.7mm wire flush with the outside of the brakes - at the

rear the wire must be trimmed off flush with the inside of the brake roding to allow later fitting of the rear bogie.

Motion Bracket.

Fold the motion bracket (194) as shown and add motion bracket backing plates (195xpair) and motion bracket facing plates

(196xpair). Do

not

fix to the chassis yet.

Driving Wheels and Side Rods.

Fit the driving wheels (157x4 and 161x4) (insulated wheels on the L/H side -see drawing), axles (158x4) and axles washers

(159x8) to the chassis with axle nuts (160x8), placing the axle gear (136) (from the gearbox packet) on the third axle from the

front as shown on Drawing 6. If necessary, clean out the hole in the axle gear with a 1/8" reamer or 1/8" drill bit. Move the

gear to one side of the axle, place a small spot of superglue or Loctite 601 on the centre of the axle and push the gear into the

centre of the axle. Make sure that the gear is "square" with the axle. Be careful not to get any glue or Loctite in the axle

bushes.

The wheels are quartered so that the crankpin on the right-hand wheel leads that of the left-hand wheel by 90 degrees when

the axle rotates forward. Make sure that all axles rotate freely in the axle bushes. Use a Romford axle nut driver to tighten the

axle nuts. Remove the etched counterweights (165x2) and (164x6) from the fret and glue to the wheels as shown. Using a

Romford axle nut driver, fit the crankpins (163x8). Fit the coupling rods (171xpair), (172xpair) and (173xpair) followed

crankpin fixers (174x8) - note: for easy removal of the coupling rods during testing, painting etc, strip a short length of

insulation from some fine electrical wire and push this "tubing" onto the crankpins as a temporary retainer.

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