AudioControl ESP-3 Kullanıcı ve Kurulum Kılavuzu - Sayfa 10

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E. ESP·3
POWER
WIRING
IMPORTANT: Disconnect the negative terminal of your car's battery before working
on any electrical
connections.
Unless you want a little extra tingle in your life.
Type of Wire. Both
+12
and ground(-) connections to the ESP-3 should be made with
multi-stranded wire no smaller than 16 gauge.
The remote tum-on connection between power amp and the ESP-3 can be made with
thinner wire.
Positive
(+12V)
Connection. If the ESP-3 is being mounted near the power amp(s),
you may simply make a parallel connection from the amp's
+12V
terminal to the ESP-3's
+12V
terminal. A fuse or circuit breaker never is a bad idea. Use at least a amp rating.
Ground Connection. The hook-up most open
to
interpretation and possible problems
is the ground
connection.
For best protection from noise, there should be ONE AND ONLY
ONE ground path to the negative side of your vehicle's electrical
system.
That means
connecting the ground terminals of the head unit, ESP-3, and power amplifiers together to
someplace
you're SURE is actually part of the negative side of the car's electrical system;
preferably the battery itself. The nearest piece of bare
metal
probably isn't a true ground.
If you're
in
doubt, connect the car stereo system's common ground directly
to
the battery's
negative terminal or where the battery's negative grounding strap contacts the vehicle
frame.
Remote Turn-on Connection. Sounds titillating doesn't it? Actually, what
it
means
is that the ESP-3 is turned on by a control signal
from
the head unit. Locate the remote
tum-on terminals on both the ESP-3 and one of your power amplifiers or the head unit and
connect them.
Center Channel Connections. The really REALLY unique thing about the ESP-3 (as
compared to our merely really unique ESP-2) is its center channel. It's what makes the
ESP-3 a true "Image
Amplifier".
The center output is not just full range mono, but has
been processed via all sorts of electronic wizardry in order to provide complimentary
ef-
fects to the Left/Right SPATIAL RESTORATION. Make sure to read our previous
recom-
mendations as to type of center channel speaker, placement and other advice for living.
IMPORT ANT: The Programmable
Frequency
Match (PFM) Circuit. The ESP-3
has a special programmable circuit to prevent the center channel speaker from trying to
reproduce low frequencies. If you're using, say a 5" center channel speaker,
it
can't very
well be expected to crank out 40 Hz bass. Or at least it may cough out its voice coil trying.
That's where the PFM circuit comes
in.
You could think of it variously as a crossover
or a low cut filter (or just nifty if you're not technically
minded).
When shipped from the
factory, the ESP-3's PFM is programmed to cut off frequencies below 150 Hz (for the
center channel only). That should protect even the lamest 5-inch speaker. If you're used
to
installing other Audio Control Performance Match Components such as our 4XS, and
desire a higher or lower frequency, you'll know what to do. If you don't, you should take
the whole thing to a professional installer. The wrong PFM frequency could damage the
center channel speaker or at least cause intermodulation distortion.
F. A SHORT TEST RUN
1.
First, re-connect the negative terminal of the car's battery.
2.
Next, make sure that any other dashboard
equalizer.
loudness or tone controls are
either switched out of the signal chain, or turned to their center (neutral position).
3.
Confirm that the three rotary controls on the top of the ESP- 3 (BASS,
MIDRANGE,
TREBLE) are set in their center detent position.
4.
Make sure that the CENTER LEVEL MATCH gain control is at its center detent
position.
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