4F Maschinentechnik Limpar SP-94 Kullanım Kılavuzu - Sayfa 9
Çim ve Bahçe Ekipmanları 4F Maschinentechnik Limpar SP-94 için çevrimiçi göz atın veya pdf Kullanım Kılavuzu indirin. 4F Maschinentechnik Limpar SP-94 14 sayfaları. Slat scraper
Sayfayı YazdırReplacing the flat belt
The machine is coupled with a flat belt. This proven machine component usually
does not wear out during the lifetime of the slat scraper. However, it may be
necessary to replace the flat belt due to incorrect use (e.g. pulling the drive
mechanism lever only partially = "slipping clutch").
This job should be carried out by a specialist workshop!
Remove the upper cover from the machine. Pull the left wheel off its axle, and
remove the large PVC cap which lies partially behind it.
Mark the install position of the outer cast flange bearing and dismount it. If the
shaft has seized due to rust, the two threaded pins (M6) on the motor-side end of
the drive shaft must be unscrewed. The drive shaft and flange bearing can now be
pulled away outwards (attention: remove the threaded studs completely!) Then
unscrew the M8 bolts (SW13) on the rear of the machine, and pull the guide for the
rear flat belt pulley upwards and out. The new flat belt can now be inserted.
Rebuilding takes place in the reverse order. Make sure that the washers are
inserted in the correct order when fitting the wheel.
Adjusting the flat belt:
This job should be carried out by a specialist workshop!
First, the bearing cap, on which on the flange bearing is located on the outside left,
must be removed. Use a foil knife to cut through the perimeter silicone bead. Do
not apply silicone or acrylate between the surfaces when mounting!
The drive shaft must be mounted cleanly. First the Bowden cable must be adjusted
in such a manner that when engaging the clutch, the spring at its lower end is
pulled approx. 3-5 mm. The tensioner with the barrel-shaped roller is split.
Unscrew the two M8 nuts on the separating plane. Let the drive of the propped-up
machine run. With a socket spanner, on the axle of the barrel roller, it can now be
pivoted horizontally and thus it influences the track of the flat belt. After
1-2 revolutions of the rear pulley, it should run stable. In other words it should find
a track with which it still has space, right and left, to the large sheet metal pulley.
After the tensioner has again been bolted, release the activation lever several
times and re-engage the clutch until you are sure that the adjustment is right.
If required, the tensioner can be shifted to the inside or outside on its bearing pin
by moving the washers.
The bearing cap must be mounted very carefully. If the cap is mounted twisted,
this will damage the motor shaft! Loosen the flange bearing and move it several
times. Clean the inner ring and the shaft end. Slide the bearing cap with the
permanently mounted flange bearing into position. Align the fastening holes and
turn screw 1 only 2 turns. With plastic hammer, now knock the inner ring of the
flange bearing until the bearing cap rests in place and the shaft turns easily. Next,
screw down the bearing cap. Knock the inner ring of the bearing again. Now, you
should be able to firmly hold the inner ring with one hand and turn the motor shaft
with the other hand. Use the threaded pin to fix the shaft in the bearing.
The edge of the flange cap must be sealed with silicone or acrylate. Before closing
the housing, check the adjustment again under load.
Make sure that the washers are inserted in the correct order when fitting the
wheel.
Cleaning the machine: The machine should be cleaned by washing it with a
gentle water jet, a sponge, and car cleaning products. High pressure cleaners and
high-pressure jets are prohibited, since they may cause damage to the seals and
maintenance-free ball bearings. Additionally, water may get into the housing.