Whirlpool 2188766 Manuel d'utilisation et d'entretien - Page 19

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Moving

When you are moving your refrigerator to a new home, follow

these steps to prepare it for the move.

1. If your refrigerator has an automatic ice maker:

Turn off the water supply to the ice maker at least one day

ahead of time.

Disconnect the water line from the back of the

refrigerator.

When the last load of ice drops, raise the wire shutoff arm

to the OFF (up) position or move the switch to the OFF

(right) setting.

2. Remove all food from the refrigerator and pack all frozen food

in dry ice.

3. Empty the ice bin.

4. Depending on your model, turn the Thermostat Control or

Refrigerator Control to OFF. See the "Using the Controls"

section.

5. Unplug refrigerator.

6. Empty water from the defrost pan.

7. Clean, wipe, and dry thoroughly.

8. Take out all removable parts, wrap them well, and tape them

together so they don't shift and rattle during the move.

9. Depending on the model, raise the front of the refrigerator so

it rolls more easily OR screw in the leveling legs so they don't

scrape the floor. See the "Door Closing" or "Leveling Your

Refrigerator" section.

10. Tape the doors closed and tape the power cord to the

refrigerator cabinet.

When you get to your new home, put everything back and refer to

the "Installation Instructions" section for preparation instructions.

Also, if your refrigerator has an automatic ice maker, remember to

reconnect the water supply to the refrigerator.

TROUBLESHOOTING

Try the solutions suggested here first in order to avoid the

cost of an unnecessary service call.

Your refrigerator will not operate

Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded

3 prong outlet.

Has a household fuse or circuit breaker tripped? Replace

the fuse or reset the circuit breaker.

Is the refrigerator or freezer control turned to the OFF

position? See "Using the Controls."

Is the refrigerator defrosting? Recheck to see whether the

refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will

regularly run an automatic defrost cycle.

Is the refrigerator not cooling? For models with digital

controls, turn the unit OFF then ON again to reset. See "Using

the Controls." If this does not correct the problem, call for

service.

The lights do not work

Is the power supply cord unplugged? Plug into a grounded

3 prong outlet.

Is a light bulb loose in the socket or burned out? See

"Changing the Light Bulbs."

There is water in the defrost drain pan

Is the refrigerator defrosting? The water will evaporate. It is

normal for water to drip into the defrost pan.

Is it more humid than normal? When it is humid, expect that

the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate.

The motor seems to run too much

Is the room temperature hotter than normal? The motor

will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room

temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of

the time. Under warmer conditions, it will run even more.

Has a large amount of food just been added to the

refrigerator? Adding a large amount of food warms the

refrigerator. The motor normally will run longer to cool the

refrigerator back down.

Are the doors opened often? The motor will run longer

when this occurs. Conserve energy by getting all items out at

one time, keeping food organized, and closing the door as

soon as possible.

Are the controls not set correctly for the surrounding

conditions? See "Using the Controls."

Are the doors not closed completely? Close the doors

firmly. If they do not close completely, see "The doors will not

close completely" later in this section.

Are the condenser coils dirty? This prevents air transfer and

makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. See

"Cleaning."

Are the door gaskets not sealed all the way around?

Contact a technician or other qualified person.

NOTE: Your new refrigerator will run longer than your old one

due to its high-efficiency motor.

The refrigerator seems to make too much noise

The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. See "Normal

Sounds."

The ice maker is not producing ice or not enough ice

Has the ice maker just been installed? Wait 72 hours for full

ice production to begin. Once your refrigerator is cooled, the

ice maker should produce 70 to 120 cubes every 24 hours.

Is the freezer temperature cold enough to produce ice?

Wait 24 hours after ice maker hookup for ice production. See

"Using the Controls."

Is the ice maker wire shutoff arm in the OFF (arm up)

position (on some models)? Lower the wire shutoff arm to

the ON (arm down) position. See "Ice Maker and Storage

Bin."

Is the ice maker switch in the OFF (right) position (on

some models)? Move ice maker switch to the ON (left)

position. See "Ice Maker and Storage Bin."

Is the water line shutoff valve to the refrigerator turned

on? Turn on the water valve. See "Water Supply Connection."

Does the ice maker mold have water in it or has no ice

been produced? Make sure your refrigerator has been

connected to a water supply and the supply shutoff valve is

turned on. See "Water Supply Connection."