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First Flights

Use these flights to get the "feel" of the controls and the Spirit

100 ARF's flying characteristics. Adjust the trims on your

transmitter (a little at a time) until the plane will fly straight and

level with the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions.

The Spirit 100 ARF is a very gentle plane that flies well in

light to moderate winds. Practice coordinating ailerons and

rudder until you can get a tight turn that is relatively flat.

Bank the sailplane with rudder and ailerons first, then add

elevator to pull it around. When setting up to land, point the

nose into the wind just downwind of where you want to land.

Line up with your landing spot and slowly feed in flaps (or

Crow). Add more or less flaps to control your descent angle

and speed so you end up hitting the spot.

ADVANCED FEATURES

There are several types of mixing the Spirit 100 ARF can

take advantage of if you have a "computer radio".

Launch Camber: Lowering the flaps and ailerons during the

launch will produce a steeper climb, giving you better altitude.

A good place to start is about 15 degrees of flap and 5 degrees

of aileron drop (the flaps will drop about three times more than

the ailerons). This automatically puts some washout in the wing

which adds stability for arrow straight launches. If you don't

have a switch for launch camber, just use the flaps for launch.

Crow: This is used to lose altitude quickly and to control your

glide for spot landings. This mixing is tied to the flap stick

(throttle)and allows the ailerons to come up as the flaps drop.

Be sure to use plenty of aileron differential when using

CROW mixing because the ailerons become less effective at

very high angles of deflection. Also use maximum rudder

coupling at full CROW. If you don't have CROW capabilities

just use flaps and make sure you have full rudder throw when

the flaps start coming down. It is a good idea to get lined up

on the spot before dropping the flaps very much because

the rudder will become sluggish with the flaps down at slow

speeds. Note: You will need to mix in a little down elevator

with the flaps to keep the plane tracking straight.

Aileron/Rudder Coupling: This is used to allow the

sailplane to make efficient, non-slipping, non-skidding turns.

You will need to experiment to find the proper amount of

throw required to do this but 1" [25mm] of rudder throw at full

aileron is probably a good place to start.

Elevator/Camber Coupling - This is a neat type of mixing

that allows the TE (ailerons and flaps) to respond to the

elevator. When properly set up, this can be very useful when

floating around in light air or when trying to thermal very

tightly. This mixing can change the flying characteristics of

the plane so start off small and get used it. A good place to

start would be 1/8" [3mm] of TE drop at full up elevator.

Controlling the Wing Trailing Edge (Camber): The wing

camber is usually controlled by a 3-position switch. The

traditional way of setting this switch is to have: the middle

position set to neutral camber, one direction for reflex (the

entire TE raises about 1/16" [1.5mm]) and the other direction

for positive camber (the entire TE drops about 3/32" [2.5mm]).

This way of programming the switch is great for good thermal-

days or days with a lot of wind where you might need the

reflex capability for zooming up wind. The other way we set

this switch is to have the "back" position for neutral camber,

the middle position for a slight amount of positive camber

[1/32" [1mm] - 1/16" [2mm]) and the forward position for more

positive camber [3/32" [2.5mm] - 1/8" [3mm]). The middle

position can be used once good air is located or when trying

to gain a few extra seconds of air time. Normally the L/D will

not be as great as neutral camber but the sailplane will float

better. The forward position is when the sailplane is low and

encounters lift, don't panic, just hit the switch. The SPIRIT

ELITE will really slow up and will thermal "on a dime". This set-

up is great for duration type flying without a lot of wind.

FACTS ABOUT THERMALS

Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside,

by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are

responsible for many things including forming several types

of clouds, creating breezes and distributing plant seeds and

pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil (which is nothing

more than a thermal that has picked up dust), you have seen

a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very similar to that

of a tornado but much gentler. Most thermals have updrafts

rising 200-700 feet per minute but have been known to

produce updrafts of over 5,000 feet per minute These strong

thermals can rip a plane apart or carry the plane out of sight

before the pilot can get out of the updraft.

Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth and

buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces absorb

heat faster than the lighter colors which reflect a great deal of

the sun's energy back into space. These darker areas (plowed

fields, asphalt parking lots, tar roofs, etc.) get warmer than the

lighter areas (lakes, grassy fields, forests, etc.). This causes