GREAT PLANES Spirit 100 Інструкція з експлуатації - Сторінка 19
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First Flights
Use these flights to get the "feel" of the controls and the Spirit
100 ARF's flying characteristics. Adjust the trims on your
transmitter (a little at a time) until the plane will fly straight and
level with the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions.
The Spirit 100 ARF is a very gentle plane that flies well in
light to moderate winds. Practice coordinating ailerons and
rudder until you can get a tight turn that is relatively flat.
Bank the sailplane with rudder and ailerons first, then add
elevator to pull it around. When setting up to land, point the
nose into the wind just downwind of where you want to land.
Line up with your landing spot and slowly feed in flaps (or
Crow). Add more or less flaps to control your descent angle
and speed so you end up hitting the spot.
ADVANCED FEATURES
There are several types of mixing the Spirit 100 ARF can
take advantage of if you have a "computer radio".
Launch Camber: Lowering the flaps and ailerons during the
launch will produce a steeper climb, giving you better altitude.
A good place to start is about 15 degrees of flap and 5 degrees
of aileron drop (the flaps will drop about three times more than
the ailerons). This automatically puts some washout in the wing
which adds stability for arrow straight launches. If you don't
have a switch for launch camber, just use the flaps for launch.
Crow: This is used to lose altitude quickly and to control your
glide for spot landings. This mixing is tied to the flap stick
(throttle)and allows the ailerons to come up as the flaps drop.
Be sure to use plenty of aileron differential when using
CROW mixing because the ailerons become less effective at
very high angles of deflection. Also use maximum rudder
coupling at full CROW. If you don't have CROW capabilities
just use flaps and make sure you have full rudder throw when
the flaps start coming down. It is a good idea to get lined up
on the spot before dropping the flaps very much because
the rudder will become sluggish with the flaps down at slow
speeds. Note: You will need to mix in a little down elevator
with the flaps to keep the plane tracking straight.
Aileron/Rudder Coupling: This is used to allow the
sailplane to make efficient, non-slipping, non-skidding turns.
You will need to experiment to find the proper amount of
throw required to do this but 1" [25mm] of rudder throw at full
aileron is probably a good place to start.
Elevator/Camber Coupling - This is a neat type of mixing
that allows the TE (ailerons and flaps) to respond to the
elevator. When properly set up, this can be very useful when
floating around in light air or when trying to thermal very
tightly. This mixing can change the flying characteristics of
the plane so start off small and get used it. A good place to
start would be 1/8" [3mm] of TE drop at full up elevator.
Controlling the Wing Trailing Edge (Camber): The wing
camber is usually controlled by a 3-position switch. The
traditional way of setting this switch is to have: the middle
position set to neutral camber, one direction for reflex (the
entire TE raises about 1/16" [1.5mm]) and the other direction
for positive camber (the entire TE drops about 3/32" [2.5mm]).
This way of programming the switch is great for good thermal-
days or days with a lot of wind where you might need the
reflex capability for zooming up wind. The other way we set
this switch is to have the "back" position for neutral camber,
the middle position for a slight amount of positive camber
[1/32" [1mm] - 1/16" [2mm]) and the forward position for more
positive camber [3/32" [2.5mm] - 1/8" [3mm]). The middle
position can be used once good air is located or when trying
to gain a few extra seconds of air time. Normally the L/D will
not be as great as neutral camber but the sailplane will float
better. The forward position is when the sailplane is low and
encounters lift, don't panic, just hit the switch. The SPIRIT
ELITE will really slow up and will thermal "on a dime". This set-
up is great for duration type flying without a lot of wind.
FACTS ABOUT THERMALS
Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside,
by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are
responsible for many things including forming several types
of clouds, creating breezes and distributing plant seeds and
pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil (which is nothing
more than a thermal that has picked up dust), you have seen
a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very similar to that
of a tornado but much gentler. Most thermals have updrafts
rising 200-700 feet per minute but have been known to
produce updrafts of over 5,000 feet per minute These strong
thermals can rip a plane apart or carry the plane out of sight
before the pilot can get out of the updraft.
Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth and
buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces absorb
heat faster than the lighter colors which reflect a great deal of
the sun's energy back into space. These darker areas (plowed
fields, asphalt parking lots, tar roofs, etc.) get warmer than the
lighter areas (lakes, grassy fields, forests, etc.). This causes
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