Aion Electronics Flare Snelstarthandleiding - Pagina 4

Blader online of download pdf Snelstarthandleiding voor {categorie_naam} Aion Electronics Flare. Aion Electronics Flare 6 pagina's. Fuzz factory

Build Instructions

For most circuits, I recommend fitting the potentiometers to the enclosure first and then fitting the PCB onto

the pots. This prevents stress on the PCB. With five to eight 9mm potentiometers on the Flare, though, this is

extremely difficult! Please see the recommended build order below.

Build Order

1. Attach the audio jacks, DC jack and footswitch to the enclosure.

2. Push the LED

into the hole in the enclosure with the leads sticking straight up, ensuring that the flat side

is oriented according to the silkscreen on the PCB.

3. Affix the 9mm pots to the PCB, but don't solder them yet. It helps to bend the two side tabs out slightly so

they latch into the holes better.

4. Fit the PCB + pots into the drilled holes in the enclosure, taking care that the LED leads end up in the

proper holes. If it doesn't fit, or if you need to bend things more than you think you should, double-check

the alignment of the pots and switches.

5. Once you feel good about everything, solder the pots and LED from the top as the last step before

wiring. This way there is no stress on the solder joints from slight misalignments that do not fit the drilled

holes. You can still take it out easily if the build needs to be debugged, but now the PCB is "custom-fit" to

that particular enclosure.

6. Wire everything according to the wiring diagram on the last page.

For the LED: You can use a bezel if you'd like, but generally it's easier just to drill the proper size of hole

and push the LED through so it fits snugly. If you solder it directly to the PCB, it'll stay put even if the hole is

slightly too big. Make absolutely sure the LED is oriented correctly (the flat side matches the silk screen) before

soldering, as it'll be a pain to fix later! After it's soldered, clip off the excess length of the leads.

"RPD" and "LEDR" resistors

The resistors marked "RPD" and "LEDR" are generally not original to the circuit and can be adjusted to

preference. "RPD" is the pulldown resistor to help tame true-bypass popping, while "LEDR" controls the

brightness of the LED. I generally use 2.2M for the pulldown resistor and 4.7k for the LED resistor.

Sockets

Since double-sided boards can be very frustrating to desolder, especially components with more than 2 leads,

it is recommended to use sockets for all transistors and ICs. It may save you a lot of headaches later on.

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